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1821

November

Thursday 1. Novr. 1821 !
I embarked this day at 2. P.M. on board the Govt. Brig Elizabeth Henrietta with my Suite, on a Tour of Inspection to the Northern Settlements of Port Macquarie and Newcastle, and sailed immediately afterwards.

Journal of A Voyage — and Tour of Inspection — from Port Jackson — to the Settlements of Port Macquarie, and Newcastle: — In November 1821.

Thursday 1. Novr. 1821.
Having for some time back resolved on going on a Tour of Inspection to the New Penal Settlement of Port Macquarie – and also to that of Newcastle on my way back from the former, and every necessary arrangement having been previously made for this purpose, I took leave of Mrs. M. and our beloved Boy at 2,O'Clock this afternoon (– they being both at Sydney at present –) and Embarked on board the Government Brig Elizabeth–Henrietta, commanded by Mr. — Gray, accompanied by Lieut. Macquarie A.D.C., Mr. Meehan Dy. Surveyor Genl., Mr. Nicholson Master attendant, and Lieut. Robt. Johnston R. N.; the two latter Gentlemen having volunteered to be of my Party.

The Snapper Cutter, commanded by Mr. — Fish, accompanied us as a Tender, to land us at such Places as might have too little depth of Water for the Brig. — The two Vessels got under weigh at ½ past Two, with a fine fair Breeze at South West, and got entirely clear of the Heads by Half past 3,O'Clock. — It rained a little all the afternoon, and the Breeze freshened a good deal by the time we had cleared the Heads. — The good faithful honest Serjt. Whalan remained with us on board till we got down to the Heads, and then left us along with the Depy. Harbour Master, Milton. — My old faithful Valet George was too unwell to accompany me on this Voyage. — Joseph the Coachman, Martin, the asst. Cook, Hammond, and Corpl. Macquarie, formed my Establishment of Servants on this occasion, besides Five Men of my own Barge's crew to man the Master attendant's Boat, which, as being so much lighter than my own Barge, I have preferred taking with me on the present Service.

On going on board the Elizabeth Henrietta in the Cove, I could not help being greatly struck, and highly pleased, with the excellent order, extreme neatness, and judicious arrangement made for my accommodation and comfort in every respect. For all this, as usual, I am indebted to my dear Mrs. M. who had, unknown to me, gone on board, and given directions for all these comfortable arrangements being made some days before.

We sat down to a very good Dinner at 4,O'Clock; but the motion was so great that none of us ate much. By sunset it came on a very smart Gale – with a high Sea – and we were going 8 Knots! — I went early to Bed, and instead of a swinging Cott, I slept in one of the Standing Bed Places, the Cabin being rather too small for a Hanging Cott to swing easy & comfortably in such severe motion. — I found the Standing Birth indeed the more comfortable of the two, and slept very well in it. —

Friday 2. Novr.
It blew a smart gale the whole of last Night, at day–light we were off Port Stephens, and still blowing very hard. — The Cutter was not to be seen at Day–break, which alarmed us a little, as she was close to us at 2,O'Clock this morning.

At 6 a.m. the Wind headed us, blowing very strong, with a high sea, and current against us, which drove us to leeward and off the Land. — The Wind continued foul till 4 P.M. when it again shifted to the South West, and continued to blow so all Night. —

Saturday 3. Novr. !!!
This morning early we were abreast of the "3 Brothers," and in sight of "Smoky Cape"; Port Macquarie laying about halfway between those two great Head–Lands. At 10 a.m. we got so close in with the Land, that with our Glasses, we could plainly see the Houses of the new Settlement of Port Macquarie; but the wind shifted round to North West at 11 a.m. and precluded the possibility of our getting in this morning, which we were very sanguine of being able to do by 12,O'Clock.

We had therefore nothing for it but to endeavour to keep what we had gained – by making Short Boards to prevent our being blown off the Land. — At 4 P.M. we were most agreeably surprised to see the lost Cutter in shore – and apparently coming out from Port Macquarie. — She joined by 5,O'Clock, and brought us out the Pilot of that Port, who had set out to come off to us the moment we hove in sight. — The Cutter had not sustained any accident on Thursday night – but finding the Sea run so very high, her Master had thought it prudent to leave us and keep close to the Shore to avoid danger. On the Cutter joining us, the Pilot came on board the Brig, but gave us no hope of getting into Port Macquarie before tomorrow forenoon, the Wind being directly against us. — We continued working up the Bay the whole of the Night, the Weather being very fine and moderate, with a Bright Moon. —

This day being the 14th. anniversary of our Wedding Day, we all drank my dear Elizabeth & our Darling, in a hearty Bumper! —

Sunday 4. Novr. 1821 !
We took an early Breakfast this morning, and at 8,O'Clock we removed on board the Snapper Cutter, in the hope of her being able to land us some Hours sooner at Port Macquarie than we should do by remaining on board the Brig. — We had not however been on board quite an Hour before it fell calm; and therefore it was determined that I should proceed on to the Port in a Boat, accompanied by Mr. Nicholson; leaving the other Gentlemen, our Servants and Baggage, to follow us in the Cutter. — The Brig and Cutter were at this time distant about 7 miles from Port Macquarie, the Houses of the Settlement being then in Sight quite distinct.

We put off from the Cutter at 9,O'Clock attended by the Pilot, to convey us safely over the Bar into the Port.

We arrived at the outside of the Bar at ½ past 11, when the Pilot made a signal for his own Whale–Boat to convey us across the Bar; our own Boat not being considered so safe to cross it. — This took about Half an Hour to arrange. We then removed to the Whale Boat, got quite easy and safe across the Bar, and landed at the Settlement of Port Macquarie at Half past 12,O'Clock; Capt. Allman the Commandant, receiving us at the Landing Place, at the Head of his Company which was drawn up under Arms on the Beach; the Convicts, with their Supdt. at their Head, being also drawn up on the Beach a little distance to the Left of the Troops, to receive us, and on my stepping out of the Boat on shore gave me three Cheers.

We proceeded from the Landing Place immediately to the Commandant's House, where Mrs. Allman, with her Family of Children, was ready to receive and give us a Hearty friendly welcome, in a very comfortable neat Cottage; in which both she and Capt. Allman made a point of taking a Room to sleep in, instead of sleeping in a Tent as I purposed doing. I accordingly availed myself of their kind invitation.

At 2,O'Clock the Snapper came to her anchorage in Harbour, having crossed the Bar very easily. — We now became anxious about the Brig, as we feared she drew too much water to cross it without touching. — Our apprehensions proved groundless, for, at 4,O'Clock, we had the pleasure of seeing her cross it in perfect safety, and in ten minutes after she came to her moorings in the Harbour. — This is by far the largest Vessel that has ever yet crossed the Bar of Port Macquarie. — I was not a little shocked and mortified at seeing my old friend and acquaintance, the Lady Nelson high and dry on the Beach the inside of the Bar, where she has lain a wreck ever since her being stranded here in April last, when Capt. Allman came to establish the Settlement, and at which time similar disasters befel [sic] the other two Vessels forming the Expedition, namely the Mermaid Cutter and Prince Regent Schooner; but the two latter Vessels, altho' considerably damaged, were ultimately saved. — It affords me, however, sincere pleasure to learn from Mr. Nicholson that the poor old Lady can be not only saved, but also rendered as useful as ever. He is to set about this very important work tomorrow accordingly. —

We all dined with Capt. Allman this day – but he and Mrs. Allman have agreed to live with me the rest of my stay here. —

Monday 5. Novr. !
Not feeling myself well, and my Bowels being a good deal out of order, I took some Physic this morning, intending to remain all day quietly at Home.

Lieut. Wilson & asst. Surgeon Fenton (the only Gentlemen now belonging to the Settlement besides Capt. Allman) dined with me today Camp–Fashion, my two Tents having been Pitched close to Capt. Allman's Cottage. We sat down Ten at Dinner including Mr. Gray the Commander of the Elizabeth Henrietta.

The 4 Cows & 4 Calves brought down for the use of the Settlement in the Elizabeth Henrietta, were landed this afternoon, all well and in high condition.

Tuesday 6. Novr. !!!
Immediately after Breakfast this morning I proceed by Water along with Capt. Allman and Lieut. Wilson to see a most rich beautiful Tract of Forest Land within a mile of the Settlement, situated between the River and the Creek, particularly well adapted for Cultivation, and forming a Government Agricultural Establishment on a large scale. I landed on it, and walked over part of the Ground, which produces at this moment very fine Herbage – and grass of very fine quality fit to be mowed down for Hay. — I named this Tract of Land "Allman Plains" in honor of Capt. Allman. —

I afterwards proceeded to view and examine the Ground most fit for the Site of the future Town. — Having so done I could find none more suitable and convenient than the Ground recommended and pointed out by Mr. Oxley in his last Report to me on this subject in December 1820. — I therefore determined at once on adopting his recommendation, which I consider a very judicious one, as combining Beauty with convenience. — This Ground runs Parallel with the Harbour and Beach, consisting of a Flat or Plain extending from the foot of "Allman's Hill" (on which the Military Barracks are built –) to the east Bank of Shoal Arm Creek, being a distance of nearly ½ a mile, along the Beach and Harbour, and extending in Depth, Southerly, to "Oxley's Terrace", in distance ¼ of a mile to the foot of that fine rising Ground, and thence in the same direction to the Narrow arm of Shoal Creek, but better known by the name of "Shoal Arm"; which forms a marked natural Boundary line for the Town on the Western and Southern sides thereof; the Sea, or Harbour, forming the Northern, and "Allman's Hill" the Eastern Boundary thereof. —

This is a most convenient site for the future Town, it being so very close to the Harbour, and very well supplied with Fresh Water Stream which runs nearly through the middle of it, and falls into the Harbour, where Ships & Vessels can easily be supplied with as much fresh Water as they can possibly require. — There is also abundance of most excellent Timber for Building growing close in the vicinity of the Town, and along the Banks of Shoal. — There are very fine verdant Hills, immediately in the Rear of the Town, which afford excellent rich Pasturage for Cattle; and it is intended to reserve those Hills for a Common for the use of the Town, after enclosing a certain proportion of them for a Government Domain. —

Having thus fixed on the Site of the future Town of Port Macquarie, I directed Mr. Meehan to lay down the Plan of it on Paper, and submit it for my final approval. —

The necessary arrangements having been made yesterday and this morning for that purpose, the first attempt was made this day at Noon to haul up the poor old Lady Nelson to a Place of safety on the Beach, where she will be out of the reach of the Tides, so as to admit of her being repaired and again rendered useful for the Public Service. They succeeded in hauling her up above three feet; but the Purchase on her not being sufficiently Strong, it gave way, and they will be obliged to make a Stronger one before she can be hauled up a sufficient distance from the High Water–mark, which they expect to be able to do tomorrow, Mr. Nicholson being indefatigable in his exertions to execute this very important Service. —

We dined as yesterday in my Tent today – and had a very good Dinner, drinking Prosperity to the new Town laid out this day in a Bumper.

Wednesday 7. Novr. !
Wishing to see and explore the River Hastings as far as could conveniently be done in one day, I set out in my own Boat accompanied by Capt. Allman and Mr. Meehan between 7 and 8 O'Clock this morning, after Breakfast, for this purpose; – Mr. Nicholson and Lt. Johnston having remained at the Settlement to haul up the Lady Nelson. —

We rowed up the Hastings as far as the westernmost End of Rawdon Island, which is about 15 miles above the Settlement of Port Macquarie; we then returned, and landed on the South Bank of the River in a beautiful rich Tract of Forest Land, where we remained for an Hour and a Half to rest and refresh our Boat's Crew. —

The whole of this River, as far as we went, is very finely wooded on both Banks, is a noble Stream of Water, and of a sufficient depth to admit of small Vessels of 30 Tons navigating it as far as the Western end of Rawdon Island. — The medium Breadth of it is about a quarter of a mile, but it is much broader in some Places, and there are some Reaches of it at least two miles long. — We saw some Natives at a distance – but we were not near enough to speak to them. — They have lately manifested a very hostile Spirit towards our People here, by frequently throwing spears at the men employed up the River in procuring Rose–Wood & Cedar, on one of which occasions a very useful man was killed, by a spear passing through his Body, of which wound he immediately died. This violent attack and Treachery only took place about a fortnight ago, since which the Natives have been very shy – and never come near the Settlement; concluding they would be severely Punished, if caught, for their Treacherous cruel conduct. —

After a very pleasant excursion up the Hastings, we got back by 3,O'Clock to the Settlement; and on our arrival, received the gratifying intelligence, that the Lady Nelson was now out of all danger, having been hauled up, in the course of this day, no less than 36 feet higher on the Beach, which will admit of her being now repaired and fitted out for Sea. — Great credit is due to Mr. Nicholson for his persevering exertions in executing this Service.

I inspected Capt. Allman's Company this afternoon at 5,O'Clock, and found the men in good order and excellent Health. I also inspected the Barracks of the Single and married men, and found both in good order, clean, and commodious. —

We all dined together today again — but dined in Capt. Allman's Cottage instead of my Tent, which I had ordered to be Struck and put on board preparatory to our Sailing tomorrow morning – which we intend – and hope to be able to do; with which view, all our heavy Baggage was put on board the Elizabeth Henrietta this afternoon. —

Thursday 8. Novr. 1821. !
We all got up very early this morning expecting to sail at 7,O'Clock, when it would be High Water, so as to enable our little Fleet to cross the Bar. —

At 6,O'Clock I mustered and inspected all the Convicts, 94 in number, and found them all looking well and Healthy – well Clothed and without any Complaint whatever. —

At ½ past 6, we sat down to Breakfast, and at 7 the two Vessels weighed anchor – and made sail to cross the Bar; the Boats being obliged to tow them out on account of it's [sic] being almost a dead Calm. — A Strong Breeze however came on from the Eastward, which knocked up all our hopes of getting out for this day – both Vessels being obliged to return to their former anchorage. — This was a sad disappointment to me; as I was most anxious to get away today, all my Business here being now completed, and being now absent a week from Sydney.

Friday 9. Novr. 1821!!!
Another attempt was made this morning by the two Vessels to get out. — They weighed and began to warp out, it being then almost calm, but there was much appearance of a Westerly Breeze Springing up every moment. — We were again however disappointed in this expectation, and to our great regret a strong Sea Breeze set in from the Eastward, which obliged the Vessels to return to their former anchorage.

The Elizabeth Henrietta was warped out however some few Hours afterwards, on the Tide of Ebb making strong, through the narrowest and most dangerous part of the Channel, and anchored about one Hundred Yards beyond the innermost Large Rock, between which & the North Shore the Tide runs the strongest. This was done with [the intention?] of being ready to cross the Bar with the first spurt of Wind from the Westward, or North West. — Having sent all my Servants and Baggage on board in the forenoon, I determined on Dining and Sleeping on board tonight. — I accordingly took leave of Mrs. Allman, and embarked at ½ past 4 P.M.; being accompanied on board, and to Dinner by Capt. Allman, Lieut. Wilson, and asst. Surgeon Fenton; Lieut. Wilson having received my permission to proceed to Sydney to bring down his Sister, forms now one of my Party on board the Elizabeth Henrietta.

Between 8 and 9 o'clock, Capt. Allman & Dr. Fenton left us. — At 9, being then high Water, a very nice Breeze at North West, & a fine moon–light Night, the Pilot assured us he could get the Brig safely over the Bar; a Boat, with a Light, being placed on the Sunken, or Beacon Rock, immediately at the entrance over the Bar. We accordingly got under weigh and made easy sail; there being 3 Boats also towing us out. — We got on very well for the first 200 yards. — The Brig then struck the ground lightly, and continued striking less or more for about 100 yards further – sometimes rather violently; – and just as we had got to the Tail of the Bar, and within a Pistol shot of the Boat with the Light on the Sunken Rock, the Wind unfortunately headed us, and rendered our proceeding further impracticable, although in five minutes more we should have been over the Bar, and clear of all danger. — We were of course constrained to put back and get to a safe anchorage as soon as possible, which we accomplished about Ten O'Clock; having however struck slightly two or three times in getting to our Birth [sic] for the Night, which was not a very pleasant one, being surrounded on all sides by Rocks, Shoals, and Breakers; but the Pilot and Master considered it a sufficiently safe one. —

Concluding all was safe, I went to Bed at 11,O'Clock, and Slept very sound during the rest of the Night.

Saturday 10. Novr. !
At Day–Break I awoke from a violent shock, which I thought at first was only one of the Boats striking against the side of the Brig –; but on this shock being repeated I jumped out of Bed and went up on Deck. — I then found the Brig dragging her anchor – which was occasioned by the immense Strong Tide then rushing in through the narrow channel we lay in. — All Hands were immediately called, and not a moment was lost in sending out Warps to remove the Brig from her present very dangerous Position. — To add to our Perils, we found, on examination, the Vessel would not steer – the Rudder being rendered useless from the Pintels being broken on the occasion of the Brig striking so violently during last Night and this morning. — To remedy this misfortune every possible exertion was made by all the Officers and Men on board to save the Vessel and convey her, by warping and other means, to her original anchorage at the Natural Wharf. — The exertions and judgment of Lieut. Robert Johnston on this critical and trying occasion, were most conspicuous, and did him a great deal of credit. — Indeed I know not what we should have done without him; for Mr. Nicholson had undergone so much fatigue yesterday in particular, & for some days before, in getting the Lady Nelson hauled up out of Danger, that he was last Night taken very ill, and was incapable of any exertion this morning.

By 10,O'Clock, we fortunately at length succeeded in getting the Elizabeth Henrietta to her old anchorage at the Natural Wharf; and during her Progress thither, we had also succeeded in unshipping the Rudder, bringing it on Deck, and setting all our Carpenters and Smiths at work to repair it and make new Pintels &c &c all which we expect to complete, and also to be able to Ship and Hang our Rudder again before Sunset this same day, so as to be able to sail tomorrow in case the Wind should then favour us.

A Party of Soldiers which were fortunately sent on board yesterday, to assist in warping out the Brig, were found very serviceable in the laborious exertions of this morning. I took a walk on shore before Dinner to look again at the old Lady Nelson – which I found now Hauled up, in excellent safe Situation, on the Beach ready to undergo the necessary previous Repairs to enable her to go to Sydney – which are to be commenced upon immediately – and which are expected to be completed in about Two months hence! —

I also saw and inspected a very fine Raft of 22 Logs of Cedar & 1 large one of Rose–wood, brought down by Mc.Manus the Overseer of the Wood Cutters yesterday, down the River Hastings from the First Falls. — The Cedar is large and of excellent quality. — The Rose–wood Log is fifteen feet long, and 2½ feet in Diameter. — I have ordered two of the largest Logs that can be found of Rose–wood and Cedar to be cut down and sent me up to Sydney for carrying Home with me as specimens of the Wood of Port Macquarie. —

Capt. Allman & Dr. Fenton dined on board with me today also, and took their leave after Tea. —

The Rudder was completely repaired and finished by Sunset, and was immediately Hung and Shipped; it being now greatly improved by being much reduced in weight. — We therefore hope to be able to get [out] with tomorrow's High Water Tide.

Sunday 11. Novr. 1821. !!!
At 8 a.m. it being then about ¾ Flood Tide, and blowing a fine Breeze of Wind from the South West, the Brig got under weigh and made sail out; but the Tide was so powerfully strong, running in with all the violence and rapidity of a Mill–Race, that it was with the greatest difficulty she could stem it at all, till after we got through the narrow channel, with every possible exertion that could be used. — We finally, however, surmounted all the obstacles opposed to us, and to our great joy got over the Bar by ½ past 9,O'Clock – and clear out from all Danger of Rocks, Shoals, and Breakers. — The Snapper Cutter followed us immediately, and got out safe also. —The Wind is now against us, but we hope it will change by Sunset this Evening.

Having to land the Soldiers who came out to assist in towing us over the Bar, we lay too [sic] for some time for that purpose, and did not stand out to Sea till 12,O'Clock at Noon, when we pursued our Voyage for Newcastle. —

I have brought one old (– a Forester) and two young Kangaroos – and one young Black Swan, from Port Macquarie, as Presents from Capt. Allman for my dear Lachlan, all of which are in good Health. —

We had no sooner cleared the Land than the Sea rose very high, and it blew a very fresh gale directly against us, and continued so to do all day; occasioning a violent motion, and making us all very sick and uncomfortable. — During the Night, it blew still more violently, and we shipped several very heavy Seas, one of which stove in the Bulwark of the Starboard side of the Main Deck. — The violence of the motion occasioned the loss of our Lamp, which was broke to Pieces by one of the Lee Lurches. — I could not sleep owing to this violent motion. and never suffered so much from Sea Sickness in my life. —

The Snapper Cutter, which sailed with us from Port Macquarie kept company with us till 12,O'Clock at Night – after which she was lost sight of, and was supposed to have stood in closer to the Land on account of the violence of the Gale. —

Monday 12. Novr. 1821.
The Wind still continues foul, blowing a hard gale, but the Sea not quite so man as yesterday. — Our Latd. at Noon was 32° 8', which fortunately proves we have had a Current in our favor – as we have advanced 42 our Voyage since yesterday at Noon, altho' the Wind is directly against us. Towards Sunset, the Weather moderated, and we saw Land about 20 miles ahead. —

Tuesday 13. Novr. !
The Wind fell, and the Gale abated entirely in the course of last Night – and this morning at Sun–rise, it was a dead Calm. — We have now Land in sight. — At Noon our Latd. was 32° 25', which shews we have only gained 18 miles of Southing during the last 24 Hours, which places us within 60 miles of Newcastle. — It is now a dead Calm. — At 1. P.M. we caught a fine large Shark, measuring no less than 11½ feet in length. —

At ½ past 3. P.M. a light Breeze from the North West sprang up in our favor – and by Sunset we were abreast of Sugar Loaf Point, which is only 45 miles from Newcastle; so that we hope to get in there in the course of tomorrow.

Lachlan's youngest Kangaroo being hurt during the late heavy Gale died this afternoon altho' every pains were taken to save his Life. He was a pretty little fellow, and I was very sorry at losing him. — Lachlan's remaining Pets are doing very well. —

Wednesday 14. Novr.
It is a dead Calm this morning, and has been so almost during the whole of last Night; so that we have made little or no Progress in our Voyage. — At 8. a.m. we were in sight of Port Stephens about 12 miles to windward and ahead of us. — The Snapper Cutter hove in sight at Day–break about 10 miles astern of us, and close in with the Land. — There is at present very little appearance of our getting in this day to Newcastle, it still continuing a dead Calm; being this day at Noon, by Observation, still 34 miles distant from that Settlement.

At 1. P.M. a Light air of Wind at N. East sprang up, and we began to make a little way in our proper course. — At ½ past 2. P.M. we were abreast of Port Stephens, and I could very distinctly see "Meredith Island" (so named by me in Decr. 1811) which divides the Outer from the Inner Harbour. — We saw at the same time a small Schooner going into Port Stephens.

At ½ past 4. P.M. we came up with the Govt. Sloop Sally (Mr. Kinnier Master), which had just come out of Port Stephens, whither she had been driven by the late Gale of Wind after leaving Newcastle for Sydney with a Cargo of Coals. This Vessel sailed from Sydney on the Evening of the 7th. Inst., and informs us that on that same day the new Governor Sir Thos. Brisbane had arrived at Port Jackson from England on bd. the Private Merchant Ship "The Royal George"! and that the "John Barry" with Male Convicts had also arrived on the same day. —

The Breeze freshened a good deal at 5. P.M. when we were going about 6 Knots, and fast approaching towards our destined Port. — At Sunset we could see the Settlements of Newcastle, and the Light soon afterwards; Nobby Island being distinctly seen before it became dark. — At 9. P.M. we anchored in Newcastle Harbour. — Before we came to anchor, my old friend & acquaintance, Major Morisset the Comdt. came on board to wait on me, and delivered me some Letters from Sydney; one of which was from my dearest Mrs. M. – which was the only one of them that I then read – & was rejoiced to find all was well. — Major Morisset having strongly urged me to land and take up my residence at the Govt. House, I yielded to his pressing kind invitation, and accordingly landed at ½ past 9. P.M. the officers of the Settlement receiving me at the Pier Head. — I found everything prepared for my comfortable accommodation at Government House.

Thursday 15. Novr. 1821.
Being limited for time, and wishing to see as much of the Interior of the Settlement of Newcastle as possible, especially of that part of it on the Right Bank of [the] Hunter named "Wallis's Plains", lately settled, I made last Night the necessary arrangements with the Commandant to enable me to carry my wishes into effect. — Major Morisset having strongly urged that myself and Suite should live with him and be considered as his Guests for the few days I intend remaining here, and having accepted his kind Hospitable Invitation, he has sent forward Boats early this morning to Wallis's Plains with Provisions &c for our Excursion up and down the River. —

Having accordingly taken an early Breakfast at Government House, we set out at 9,O'Clock on our Voyage up the River; the Comdt. and myself going in his Barge, and the Gentlemen of our respective Suites – vizt. Lieut. Johnston, Mr. Nicholson, Mr. Meehan, Lieut. Close, Lieut. Wilson, and Lieut. Macquarie, in two other Boats.

We halted at two separate Places on the River – vizt. at the Hollow Tree – and at Nelson's Plains to refresh the Men & give them a Dram. — At the latter Place there is a very neat Govt. Cottage, which Major Morisset had very lately built on hearing that my dear Mrs. M. had some intention of accompanying me to this Settlement. He calls it the Nelson "Auberge". — It is very commodious, neat, and clean – and built in the Rustic Style. — It is about 30 miles distant from Newcastle by Water. — From this Station, after Half an Hour's Rest, we prosecuted our Voyage, and at 3. P.M. arrived and landed at the Green Hills, 45 miles from Newcastle; and sending the Boats round by the River to Wallis's Plains, we set out by Land for that Place, across an Istmus [sic], or Neck of Land not more than 5 miles from where we landed, whereas it is 30 miles by the River. — Major Morisset had a Horse belonging to one of the Settlers ready for me to mount on my landing at the Green Hills, which conveyance I was very glad to avail myself of, as it was rather too great a distance for me to walk. —Himself and the other Gentlemen were however obliged to foot it.

I had a very pleasant Ride through a very fine rich Tract of Country to Wallis's Plains and the Settlement thereon, there being 11 separate Families now settled on their Lands in that District. — At Half past 4. P.M. we arrived at the Government Cottage, which Major Morisset had built some time since, and very kindly called it "Lachlan Cottage" in honor of his young friend Lachlan, our beloved Boy. — It is a neat rustic Building, very commodious, and most beautifully situated on the summit of a pretty Eminence, having a large Lagoon of Fresh Water in front, besides the large Creek I named Wallis's Creek, and Commanding a fine view of all the Farms on Wallis's Plains. — Here I found Bungaree, Chief of the Boan Native Tribe, with all his own Family, and 30 more of his Tribe, waiting my arrival, having come on purpose to meet me. — Our Boats not having arrived till 6,O'Clock, we had rather a late Dinner, not having sat down to it till 9,O'Clock. — We had then however a most excellent one, and we all partook very heartily of it. — Bungaree and his Tribe entertained us with a Karaburie after Dinner, and we did not go to Bed till 11 O'Clock.

Friday 16. Novr. —
We got up very early, and Breakfasted between 6 and 7,O'Clock, so as to send off our Baggage and Boats in good time, to meet ourselves again at the Green Hills. — We walked about the Government Grounds, and the Settlement till 8,O'Clock, when we set out on our return to Newcastle by the same route we came. — I was provided with the same Horse I rode yesterday, Major Morisset being also provided with one; and arrived at the Green Hills at Half past 9. a.m.

In a quarter of an Hour afterwards our Boats arrived, and at 10. a.m. we set out from the Green Hills by Water; — making the same Halts as before to refresh our Boats Crews, who exerted themselves to the utmost to get us on. — On our way back to Newcastle, we touched at the Station of the Lime Burners, for the purpose of inspecting them. — Their number at present consists of 95 men. — I found them Healthy – and very well fed, and comfortably lodged, with two Large Gardens full of Vegetables for their use. — We set out from the Station of the Lime Burners at ½ past 5. P.M. and arrived at Newcastle at ¼ past 6,O'Clock; the Troops being drawn out to receive me – and the Battery saluting. — This Ceremony also took place on my setting out yesterday morning. We dined soon after our arrival – the Civil and Military officers of the Settlement having been invited to meet me. —

Saturday 17. Novr. —
Intending, in case the Wind should be fair, to embark for Sydney this Evening, I commenced my Inspections at this Settlement immediately after Breakfast this morning. — I first inspected the Troops, their Barracks and Hospitals, and afterwards the whole of the Male & Female Convicts, their Barracks, and the Colonial Hospital. — I then proceeded to inspect the Lumber Yard, the New Pier, the Jail, the Store, and all the other Public Buildings; concluding my Labours at 3. P.M. by receiving Petitions and Memorials at the Police Office. — I was very highly gratified with every thing I saw, and expressed my unqualified approbation to Major Morisset of the manner in which he conducts his arduous Duties here, and the excellence of the system he has laid down, and pursues so successfully. —

The Wind being quite foul & directly against, we have abandoned our intention of embarking this Evening; trusting however, we shall be enabled to do so early tomorrow morning. — We sat down to an excellent Dinner at 6,O'Clock. — I named a very fine large Lagoon of Fresh Water, about Half way between the Green Hills and Wallis's Plains, "Morisset's Lagoon", in honor of the present Commandant, finding on enquiry here it had no particular name before. It is two miles in Length – and is a very pretty sheet of Water. —

Sunday 18. Novr.
On getting up and looking out this morning a 5,O'Clock, I was grieved to find the Wind still continued foul, and blowing a very hard gale from the Southward, accompanied with very heavy Rain. — This is very tantalizing – all my Business at this Settlement being now completed – and being therefore extremely anxious to return to Head Quarters as soon as possible. — But it would be useless to embark with such boisterous weather as this is, and therefore I must have patience. —

The New Vessel, called the Newcastle Schooner, which I had dispatched Express, with Letters for Sydney on Thursday morning, was forced back the same Evening by the severity of the Southerly Gale she had encountered on that day, and lies now at anchor at the mouth of the Harbour, not having since been able to resume her Voyage.

It rained very heavy this whole Day – with a hard Southerly Gale at Sea. I went to Church in the afternoon to hear the Revd. Mr. Middleton Preach. —

Monday 19. Novr. 1821.
The Weather has cleared up this morning, but the Wind continues still foul, and directly against our getting to Sydney. — Feeling my Bowels rather out of sorts this morning, I took some medicine and kept my Room the greater part of the Day. —

Between 1 and 2,O'Clock today, the Govt. Sloop Sally arrived from Sydney, and brought me a very pleasant Letter from my dear Mrs. M. dated the 14th. Inst., by which I had the happiness to learn that herself and our darling Boy were well in Health. —

Feeling myself greatly better from the medicine I had taken in the morning, I rode out for an airing between 3 and 4,O'Clock, and accompanied Major Morisset to inspect the two new Wind Mills and New Guard House he had sometime erected. — The Grand Pier or Mole (named "Macquarie Pier"– ), I was rejoiced to find on inspection is now about Half completed across the channel which separates Coal Island – or Nobby – from the Main Land on which the Town of Newcastle is situated. — This channel is Half a mile across. — This Pier is a noble and most important Piece of Work, but a most arduous and Herculean undertaking. — It was commenced by Capt. Wallis three years ago, and it will most likely take two years more to complete it. — When this is done, however, the Harbour of Newcastle will be both safe and commodious, and fit to receive Ships of 500 Tons Burthen. Indeed the good effects of this Pier is already felt, as it has already rendered the Harbour secure, and deepened considerably the Channel by which Vessels must enter. The Wreck of the Nautilus has been removed from where it choaked [sic] up one side of the Channel, in consequence of the force of the River Current and Freshes being confined to the principal Channel by the erection of the Pier.

Tuesday 20. Novr. 1821.
The Weather being moderate, and there being some little appearance of a Change of Wind, the Comr. of the Elizabeth Henrietta (according to my orders given him yesterday) fired a Gun at 5,O'Clock this morning as a Signal for Sailing. — I got up immediately, and sat down to Breakfast at 6,O'Clock; the Brig in the meantime weighing anchor, made the best of her way out of the Harbour.

At 7. a.m. I left the Govt. Cottage, attended by Major Morisset and the Gentlemen of my Suite, and set out in the Commandant's Boat to join the Brig which was then laying to for us in the offing, the Troops lining the Street leading to the Wharf as I passed to the Boat – and the Battery saluting me with 19 Guns on my Embarkation. — My kind and friendly Host Major Morisset, Lieut. Close, and Ensign Mc.Alister accompanying me on board, where we arrived a qr. before 8,O'Clock. — I then took a kind leave of my Friends – who returned on shore, whilst we made Sail and stood out to Sea for a good offing; for, I am grieved to say, the Wind continues still foul – blowing directly from the very quarter we want to go to. — The Snapper Cutter sailed in company with us; and the little Dispatch Schooner Newcastle sailed about 3 Hours before us this morning. — She is however still in sight. —

Major Morisett has most kindly sent his young friend Lachlan the following very handsome Present of Pets; vizt. Four Black Swans, Two Emus, Two Kangaroos (Foresters), One Wild Goose, and One Wanga–Wanga Pigeon; all which were sent on board this morning in high Health. — Ensign Mc.Alister has also sent Mrs. Macquarie a present of a number of rare Stuffed Birds of Hunter's River. —

By 3. P.M. we had got a pretty good Offing – and the Wind by that time altered a few Points in our favor, but being very light we made little Progress in our Voyage. — By 5. P.M. the Wind became still more favorable, and we were able to lay our Course, going at the rate of about 4 Knots an Hour. — At this time we were little more than abreast of Newcastle. — At Sunset the Breeze Freshened up a little more, and we began to make some progress along the Land. — At 9. P.M. we were abreast of "Bird Island", which is about Halfway between Newcastle and Port Jackson. — The Wind died away between 11 and 12 ,O'Clock.

Wednesday 21. Novr. 1821.
We had a Calm the greater part of the Night – and consequently made very little progress in our Voyage.

At 9. a.m. We were only abreast of Broken Bay 20 miles from Port Jackson. — We have now however a fine Breeze of 4 Knots an Hour, but there is a light Current against us – which considerably retards our Progress. — The Snapper Cutter is in Company with us – and the Newcastle Schooner is in sight – but about Ten miles ahead of us. — At ¼ before 11. a.m. we saw the Newcastle enter Port Jackson Heads and we expect to do the same in about an Hour and a half.

At 12 at Noon, we Entered the Heads of Port Jackson – and the Wind being directly fair ran up the Harbour in the Brig. — We anchored at 1 P.M. and landed immediately at Mrs. M's Private Stairs – where I had the happiness of meeting my dearest Elizabeth – our Darling Boy being at Mr. Reddall's.

[End of the Journal describing the Tour of Inspection to Port Macquarie and Newcastle].

Source
Macquarie, Lachlan. Journal of a Voyage and Tour of Inspection from Port Jackson to the Settlements of Port Macquarie, and Newcastle. 1 November 1821 – 21 November 1821.
Original held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A785 pp.1–54. [Microfilm Reel CY303 Frames #434–#488].

Wednesday 21 Novr. 1821 !
I arrived and anchored in Sydney Cove this day at 1. P.M, and landed immediately; finding my dearest Mrs. M. waiting to receive me at her own Private Stairs. — The accounts of my Voyage and Tour of Inspection are recorded in two Separate Memorandum Books marked "Nos. 1 & 2 — Novr. 1821" —

On my landing, and entering into conversation with my dear Mrs. M. I was agreeably surprised to find she had come down that morning from Parramatta along with the new Governor Sir Thomas Brisbane, who, with his Family had taken up their residence at Parramatta, as her Guests, at the Government House, – and who had come down with her on purpose to meet me on my arrival here.

I met him walking in the Domain and we were there introduced to one another. — After remaining for about an Hour at Sydney, we all set out for Parramatta, and arrived there between 4 and 5,O'Clock in the afternoon. — I was soone afterwards introduced to Lady Brisbane and her sister Miss Makdougall. —

Sir Thomas Brisbane's Suite consists of his A.D.C. Lieut. Fennel; his Major of Brigade Capt. Ovens; Dr. Mc.Leod, Family Surgeon, and Mr. Rumker Astronomer. —

Friday 23. Novr. 1821 !
Sir Thomas Brisbane and myself had a long conversation this morning after Breakfast, and fixed the time for my resigning, and his taking charge of the Government.

The time accordingly fixed for doing so is Saturday the 1st. of December; previous to which I shall be able to make all the necessary arrangements for giving up charge. —

Saturday 24. Novr.
I went ot Sydney to transact Business, and to issue the necessary orders for Sir Thos. Brisbane taking charge of the Government on Saturday next, returning to Parramatta to Dinner.

Monday 26. Novr. 1821 !
The Ship Brixton, Capt. Lusk, sailed this day for England, intending to touch at the Derwent.

I sent Home two Boxes of Dispatches by Capt. Lusk, for H.R.H. Commander in Chief and Earl Bathurst.

Tuesday 27. Novr. !
Lieut. Robert Johnston R.N. sailed this day on board the Govt. Cutter Snapper on a short Voyage of Discovery along this coast, Southerly and Northerly, under Instructions from me for his guidance.

Wednesday 28th.
I held a Court of Appeals at Sydney. —

Thursday 29th.
I accompanied Sir Thomas Brisbane to inspect the Agricultural Establishment at Emu Plains; returning to Parramatta to Dinner in the Evening. — Sir Thos. was greatly pleased with every thing on Emu Plains. —

Friday 30. Novr. 1821.
I held a Court of Appeals again at Sydney, passed Judgment on some of the Causes, dismissed some others, and dissolved the Court. —

I returned to Sydney before Breakfast today – resigning the Govt. House at Parramatta to Sir Thos. Brisbane & his Family for their residence; it having been determined on that I should reside at the Govt. House at Sydney till my Embarkation. — Mrs. Macquarie and Lachlan accordingly came down with me this morning, having now given up keeping House and Table for Sir Thos. & his Family.

Sir Thomas Brisbane & Family joined us at Sydney in the Evening, taking up their Quarters with us preparatory to the ceremony of tomorrow. —

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Source
Macquarie, Lachlan. Diary 11 March 1821 - 12 February 1822.
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A774 pp.239-244 [CY Reel 301: Frames 655-660].

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