January

Wednesday 1. Jany. 1823 !
We set out this morning from Ville Franche, and at Half past 2. P.M. arrived at the great City of Lyons, disce. 20 miles from our last Stage.

We put up at the Hotel du Parc, which we found a very good Inn, and the People very obliging. — This in point of size, and Population, is the next City to Paris in all France. — It is beautifully and most conveniently situated at the confluence of the two great Rivers Rhone and Saone. — The approach to Lyons is beautifully romantic and Picturesque, lying in a fine Valley surrounded by Hills, which, as well as the whole of the Environs, are straddled with elegant handsome Buildings, Villas, and fine Gardens. —

Thursday 2. Jany.
We have determined on remaining at Lyons for a Couple of days to rest ourselves after our long and fatiguing Journey from Paris.

We took an Airing this forenoon in a Hackney Coach through the Town to see as much of it as we could. — We visited the Cathedral, which is a very fine one, and drove afterwards along the Bank of the great River Rhone, and the extensive Quays along its Banks.

Friday 3. Jany.
We visited the Museum this day, and afterwards drove in a Hackney Coach through various parts of the Town of Lyons. — The only Purchase made by any of us at Lyons was by Lachlan, who made a Present of a very handsome Lyons Silk Pellisse to his good and dear Mamma. —

Saturday 4. Jany.
Having Breakfasted at Lyons, we resumed our Journey from that City at ½ past 10, O'Clock this forenoon, crossing the great River Rhone in the Suburbs of the Town by a fine Stone Bridge to the Left Bank, along which our Route lay. — The weather is extremely cold and frosty – and we find the roads very rough and deep. —

At 4. P.M. We reached Vienne a prettily situated small Town on the Left Bank of the Rhone, disce. 20 miles from Lyons. — Here we took up our Quarters for the Night; putting up at the "Hotel du Mule Blanche".

Sunday 5. Jany.
Set out from Vienne at ½ past 8. a.m.; Breakfasted at the small Town of Peage, and arrived at the Town of St. Vallier at 6. P.M. – disce. 30 miles. — We put up at the Hotel du Poste des Chavaux. [sic] — Saint Valier is a very pretty Town Situated on the Left Bank of the Rhone.

Monday 6. Jany. —
At ¼ past 7. a.m. Set out from St. Vallier. — Halted at the little Town of Tain on the Left Bank of the Rhone to Breakfast and rest our Horses.

Immediately opposite to Tain is the pretty romantic Town of Tournon, on the right Bank of the Rhone, full of fine Buildings and surrounded with Scenery. —

Left Tain at ¼ past 1. P.M. and at ½ past 2, arrived at the Ferry on the Right Bank of the large River Isere, which is here very broad, and which we crossed with our Carriage and Horses in a large Boat; – but we were detained for about an Hour at this Ferry in consequence of the great number of Waggons & Carts which had arrived there before us.

We reached our Night's Stage at the Town of Valance at ¼ past 5 in the Evening — disce. 22 miles; putting up at the Hotel Croix D'Or.

Tuesday 7. Jany.
Set out from Valance at ¼ past 6. a.m. — Halted to Breakfast and rest our Horses at the small Town of Loriol, and arrived at the pretty Town of Montelimart [sic] at 6. P.M. disce. 30 miles; putting up at the Hotel du Poste de Chevaux.

Wednesday 8. Jany.
Left at 6. a.m. – Halted to Breakfast and refresh our Horses at the small Town of Peirlaude; [sic] and arrived at our Night's Quarters at Orange at ¼ past 6, O'Clock in the Evening — disce. 35 miles, and putting up at the Hotel du Poste des Chevaux. — This is a large Town and prettily Situated on the Left Bank of the Rhone. — We passed several beautifully situated Roman Stations and ancient Fortifications during this days Journey. —

We have found the Roads during the last three days extremely bad, rough, and deep in consequence of late heavy falls of Rains and Thaw; so that Travelling is become very unpleasant and fatiguing as well as very tedious in being obliged to travel all day to make out 30 or 35 miles Journey; — but we now find the weather much milder than it has been of late.

Thursday 9. Jany.
We Breakfasted at Orange, and set out from thence at 10. a.m. At 4. P.M. arrived at the large and beautifully situated City of Avignon, on the Left Bank of the Rhone, disce. 16 miles from our last Stage. — We put up at the Hotel du Palais Royale a most excellent Inn, and the People particularly kind and civil. — The Road all the way from Orange to Avignon was execrably bad, and rendered almost impassable from the late heavy Rains. — The Country we have travelled through for the last four Days is very barren, and generally hilly, forming an extensive Valley with the fine large River Rhone running through the Center of it.

As soon as we had rested ourselves and got comfortably settled at our Hotel, we hired and went out in a Fiacre (– a small open Carriage –) to see as much as we could of the Town of Avignon. — We visited the grand and ancient Palace of the Popes of Avignon, beautifully situated, and commanding a noble view of the Rhone and the adjacent Country as far as Vaucluse.

We also visited the Church of —— finely ornamented with Paintings inside, and containing a noble Figure of our Saviour on the Cross, cut inimitably well in Ivory; – being the finest thing of the kind I have ever seen. — We did not return Home to Dinner till past 6. O'Clock.

Friday 10. Jany. —
Immediately after Breakfast this morning, we went out to see the long Bridge across the Rhone made of Wood, which is 1100 yards in length. We crossed this Bridge to the Right Bank of the Rhone, to view the ancient City of Villeneuve, which is now nearly in Ruins. — The City of Avignon was, in former ages, long the Place of residence of the Popes. — It is completely surrounded by a high Stone Wall flanked by Towers, and is supposed to have been built by the Romans. After seeing the old decayed fine Stone Bridge across the Rhone, and some few other parts of this ancient City, we returned to our Hotel, and found our Carriage ready for departure. —

At 11. a.m. We set out from Avignon, and at 5. P.M. arrived at the small Town of Orgon, where we put up for the Night at a very good Hotel called Du Poste des Chevaux — disce. 17 miles. —

Saturday 11. Jany. —
At ½ past 5. a.m. Set out from Orgon; — Halted to Breakfast and refresh our horses for two Hours at the small Town of L'ambese [sic] and arrived at the City of Aix at ½ past 5. P.M. — disce. from Orgon 30 miles. — We put up at the "Hotel du Prince", a very large fine Inn – but a very dear one in their Charges. — The Country through which we have travelled through, the greater part of the way since leaving Avignon, is very Hilly and barren, tho' full of very extensive Vineyards of the Grape Vine and Olive Trees. — We have had no appearance of Snow, or even Frost since leaving Avignon; neither has there been any Rain for several days, and the Weather has become considerably milder. —

Sunday 12. Jany.
We Breakfasted early, and afterwards walked out to see the Town, which is a very pretty one, and contains a great number of fine handsome Buildings, and next to Paris is the prettiest and cleanest Town I have seen in France; the Streets and Promenades being broad and kept very clean. —

We visited the celebrated hot springs here, over which a very handsome Fountain is built in the Center of the principal Street of the city. — We felt the Heat of the Water, which is very warm.

After perambulating through the principal parts of the Town, and calling at the Post Office, for my Letters and Newspapers from Paris, we returned to our Hotel – where we found the Carriage ready waiting for us. —

At ½ past 10. a.m. we set out from Aix; and after Travelling through a very pretty romantic wild looking Country, we arrived at the Top of Hill within about two miles of Marseilles, we had, for the first time, a very fine extensive view of that Celebrated Sea the Mediterranean, as well as of the Town of Marseilles.

We reached the Town or City of Marseilles at ¼ before 3. P.M., disce. 20 miles from Aix. — We put up at the Hotel de Beauvau, a very fine large commodious Inn, but which we found a most extravagant one in all their Charges. —

As soon as we had got ourselves Comfortably Settled at the Hotel, I walked out with Mr. Meiklejohn to view the Town; Mrs. M. being too much fatigued to accompany us.

I called on Mr. Turnbull the British Consul General here, and not finding him at Home I left the Letter of Introduction I had for him from my friend Mr. James Smith of Paris. — After walking through a great part of this large Commercial Town, we returned Home to Dinner. —

Monday 13. Jany.
We Breakfasted early this morning and immediately afterwards I went out to call again upon the Consul General. — He had gone to the Country that morning on particular business; — but his Mother (a fine Old Lady) and Brother were at Home, and gave me a very civil polite reception, and a great deal of useful and interesting information respecting our intended Winter Quarters at Hyeres. — On returning Home to the hotel, I found **Mrs. disposed to take a walk through the Town and to see the Harbour of Marseilles.

We all walked out accordingly along the extensive and Spacious Quays of the Harbour and Port of Marseilles to the entrance thereof, which is very narrow, not being quite a Musquet Shot across, and defended by a strong Castle on the West and by strong Batteries on the East Side. — A good natured French Soldier (who had been a Prisoner of War in England) on Duty at the Castle, conducted us thro' the Works of the Castle, and was particularly civil and attentive in pointing out every thing to us in going round the Works.

The Basin, or Port of Marseilles, is very spacious, and well Sheltered from all Winds, and at present it is full of Shipping of all Nations, Marseilles being a Place of great Trade. — The Quays and Wharfs round this fine Basin are spacious and Commodious; and to judge from the vast concourse of People we met with walking up and down these Quays, one would conclude that there must be an immense deal of Trade and business carried on in this City. — The City of Marseilles covers a great deal of Ground, and contains many fine large Buildings. The Streets and Promenades are wide and regularly laid out, the latter being Planted with Trees.

After walking till we were tired, we returned to our Hotel to prepare for resuming our Journey.

At ½ past 12, O'Clock, we set out from Marseilles, and at 6. P.M. arrived at the small Town of Cujes, disce. 17 miles. — We put up at the Hotel Bonne–fait; a poor Inn, but the People very civil. —

Tuesday 14. Jany.
At ½ past 9. a.m. Set out from our Hotel at "Cujes", where we Breakfasted previous to our departure. — The Country we travelled through this day from Cujes, was wild and very Hilly, but in many parts very beautifully romantic and Picturesque, more particularly so after passing the Village of Beausset; about 4 miles to the southward of which the Road begins to wind in a Serpentine direction through deep Chasms in the Mountains, which are here very high Craggy and Rocky to their Summits. — This Road is most excellent, and generally cut out of the solid Rock with a pretty little River running along it in the bottom of this immense Ravine, or Pass, which is the finest and grandest thing of the kind I ever saw in any Country. — This grand Piece of Road extends for about a mile through this Serpentine Chasm or Cut in the Mountains and Travellers are indebted for it to that extraordinary man the late Emperor Napoleon. — On the top of the highest part of this Mountain and Commanding the narrowest part of the Pass, is an old Roman Fortress, or Castle, which forms a grand object to look at from below.

We were all very much gratified with the wild Picturesque – but terrific Scenery of this Mountain Pass so near the Town of Toulon, the Mountains here being called the "Toulon Mountains". —

On our nearer approach to Toulon, and from the Top of a Hill about two miles from it, we had again a fine view of the Mediterranean and also of the Town, Port, and roads of Toulon where several Ships lay at Anchor. —

At 2. P.M. we arrived at the City of Toulon, disce. 20 miles from Cujes; putting up at the "Hotel de Croix D'or" — a very large comfortable Inn. —

As soon as we had settled ourselves comfortably at our Hotel, we went out to take a walk through the Town and along the fine Quays of Toulon, from whence we had a good view of the Inner Harbour of Toulon, and the Shipping now in it.

I called on my Banker here — to draw some money, and we then returned Home to dinner between 4 and 5, O'Clock. — In the Evening Monsr. Jouve the Deputy English Consul called on us at the Hotel to make a tender of his Services, in consequence of a Letter of Introduction I brought for him from Mr. Turnbull Jnr.

Wednesday 15. Jany. —
We Breakfasted early, and afterwards walked out through the Town. — I called on Mr. Jouve the Vice Consul to return his visit, and again on my Bankers Messrs. Trabaud & Freres, and then returned Home to the Hotel, where we found the Carriage ready waiting us.

At 1. P.M. we set out from Toulon, and after a pleasant Drive along a good Road, arrived at the small Town of "Hyeres" — disce. 12 miles from Toulon. — In consequence of the recommendation of Mr. Jouve, we took up our Quarters at the "Hotel Des Ambassadeurs" kept by Felix Suzanne. — Here we have resolved on taking our abode for the present and during the remainder of the Winter, in case we should find the Climate of Hyeres agree with us; it having been strongly recommended to us for our Winter residence by several of our friends in England. —

The Town of Hyeres is walled all round, and is situated on the declivity of a Hill, on the summit of which there are the remains of an old Roman Fortification. — The situation of the Town is consequently very picturesque, pretty, and airy. It is surrounded at a little distance by an amphitheatre of very high beautiful Hills on the North, East, and West, being open to the Sea on the South, and within three miles of it, having a large extensive Plain of that extent lying between it and the Sea, and this Plain is full of Vineyards and Gardens, producing excellent Oranges, Grapes, Olives, and all other sorts of Fruits and Vegetables, which are all good of their kind.

The best Houses at Hyeres are outside of the Walls of the Town, forming a sort of Suburb, in which the richer and better sort of People live –, especially those who have landed Property and extensive Vineyards and Orchards in the Vicinity of the Town. — There are two other very good large Hotels at Hyeres besides the one we live in, called Hotel D'Europe, and Hotel D'Angleterre; all three being onside [sic] of the Walled Town. —

As we have made up our minds to live at the Hotel Des Ambassadeurs as long as we remain at Hyeres, we have entered into an engagement with the Man who keeps it to pay him at the rate of Forty Francs per Day for our Board and Lodging including two Bottles of good Wine and all other items required for ourselves and our Servants. —

We have also deemed it necessary for own comfort, Health, and Exercise, to retain the same Driver, Carriage, and Horses that brought us hither; paying at the rate of Eighteen Francs per day for the same during our residence at Hyeres.

Saturday 18. Jany. —
Mrs. Macquarie, Lachlan, and myself, took a Drive in the Carriage, as far as the small Village and Roadsted [sic] of Salin to view the large extensive Salt Pans there. — There were then a great number of Ships & small Vessels at anchor in the Roads waiting to take Salt on board.

The Village of Salin is about four miles from Hyeres, with a very good Road for riding or walking.

Monday 20. Jany. —
Monsr. le Compte & Comptess Maupeou (– who have been living at the same Hotel with us and who made acquaintance with us –) Set out this morning for Nice leaving their address at Paris with us.

Saturday 25. Jany. —
I was this afternoon taken ill with a most severe Cold and Fever, caused principally, I believe, from neglecting a Slight Cold I caught during the latter part of our recent Journey, and which has now ended in a severe ulcerated Throat and smart Fever. — The principal medical man at Hyeres, Monsr. Allegre, was called in to attend me during my illness; which, under the mercy of God, the incessant and most tender attentions of my dear good wife, and the skill of Dr. Allegre, I at length overcame, so as to be able to go out to take an airing in the Carriage with Mrs. M. on Sunday the 9th. of February; having been, for the 14 days preceding, closely confined to my Bed. —

Source:
MACQUARIE, Lachlan. Journal. 30 November 1822 – 7 July 1823.
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A776-1 pp.12b-26b [Microfilm CY Reel 302 #Frames 164-192].