April 1807

Saturday 4th. April —
We have had contrary winds or Calms almost ever since we left Bombay till two days ago, when the wind changed in our favor and enabled to steer our regular course with a fine steady Breeze. At 2.P.M. we were in sight of Cape Muchsa on the Persian Shore. — We are now in the Gulph of Ormus, and near the Entrance of that of Persia.

Tuesday 7th. April —
At 12,O'Clock at Night, very near the entrance of the Gulph of Persia, a small ship passed close to us – but we did not speak her. — She is supposed to be the Eliza merchant ship bound from Bussora to Bombay. —

Wednesday 8th. April —
At 5.P.M. we doubled Cape Musseldom, forming the Southern entrance of the Gulph of Persia; and at 6 P.M. we were abreast of the Great Quoin about 8 or 9 miles distant to the Southward of us; the Island of Ormus being at the same time in sight about 40 miles to the northward of us. — At 7.P.M. we were fairly within the Gulph of Persia – but the wind is almost directly ahead. —

Thursday 16th. April —
At 1,O'Clock in the afternoon of this day, we anchored in the outer Roads of Bushire Town in Persia. — We dined on board our own ship at an early hour; and at 3.P.M. Lieut. Nesbitt, Dr. Thomas, Lieut. Brande and myself left the ship in the Pinnace – a nice new Boat – with the intention of visiting Mr. Bruce, the acting British Resident at Bushire. — It blew fresh, and there was a pretty high Sea running when we put off from the Benares; but both increased considerably soon afterwards.

About halfway between the ship and the shore, just as we were crossing the Bar, an immense heavy sea broke over us, half filled the Boat with water and tilted her over on her Beam-ends ! -we hung by her with some difficulty and in the most peril of our lives for about a minute until she again righted. — Our Bodies were almost wholly in the Water, we got a most complete Soaking, and very narrowly escaped drowning; which most assuredly would have been our fate had not the Boat providentially righted again at the very instant she did. — We landed at the Town of Bushire about half past 5,O'Clock in the Evening in a very uncomfortable state, and like half drowned Rats.

Not finding Mr. Bruce at the Company's Factory in Town, we had to walk to his House in the Country, about two miles from Town; and in the course of the walk thither, we got nearly dried, it blowing very hard a dry hot wind. — Mr. Bruce received us kindly; and we supped and spent the Evening with him; — having prepared Beds and accommodation for the night for all of us; _ which we [we] availed ourselves of accordingly.

Friday 17th. April 1807.
After having Breakfasted with Mr. Bruce, we rode in on Horses belonging to him to Bushire; and having soon finished our business we embarked in one of the Country Boats – called here Trankeys – and returned on board ship at Noon; taking with us from the Town of Bushire a Pilot for the rest of the voyage to Bussora. —

At 3.P.M. – we weighed anchor, and pursued our Voyage, but with a very faint light Breeze.

Saturday 18th. April 1807.
At 8.a.m. we were abreast of the Island of Carrach – and within about a mile of the shore. — At 9.a.m. we were abreast of the Town and Fort; off which we lay too for the Sheik of the Island to come on board to receive the usual Tribute of Two Bags of Rice for Pilotage.

Having got a Trankey here for our Pilot, we continued our Voyage again at 10,O'Clock, passing through the narrow Channel between the Islands of Carrach and Corgo; – but the wind being very scant, we were obliged to work through the Passage, making very little progress the rest of the Day.

Tuesday 21st. April – 7.
We were in sight of the Bar at the mouth of Bussora River at day break this morning – and our Pilot sent his Trankey to sound for it. — At 10,O'Clock the Trankey anchored on the Bar in 2 ½ Fathoms, and we crossed it in half an hour afterward into Bussora River – or – as it is called by the Natives of the Country "Shat-el-Arab"; there being no Land to be seen on either side for 4 or 5 miles from the Bar. — At Noon we were in sight of Land on both sides of the River – with fine extensive Plantations of Date Trees all along both Banks – especially on that of the Persian Shore; but both on the Persian and Arabian shores and sides of this grand River, we saw immense Herds and Flocks of Cattle and Sheep, and also a great number of very beautiful Arabian Horses. —

The rest of our Voyage up this fine River was most delightfully pleasant and Picturesque.

At 11,O'Clock at Night we anchored in the River, immediately abreast of Haffar Creek, Sixty miles from the Bar and thirty below the Town of Bussora. — Here we found lying at anchor the Prince of Wales and Princess Augusta Company's Cruizers, and also the Euphrates Country [Ship]; being obliged to remain here for the present in consequence of our having recently quarrelled with the Turkish Government.

We found orders here from Mr. Manesty the British Resident at Bussora for the Benares to proceed no farther up the River but to remain at Haffar with the other Vessels until further orders.

Dr. Thomas, Lt. Brande, and myself determined therefore to proceed in a Boat the following morning to Bussora. —

Wednesday 22d. April 1807. Mr.
Stewart, a Mercht. in Bussora, having come down from thence early this morning on business to the Euphrates Country Ship, in Mr. Manesty's fine Pleasure boat the Balloon, was so good as to come on board the Benares to visit us, and offered my two Travelling Companions and myself a Passage to Bussora in the Balloon, and we most readily availed ourselves of his kind invitation.

We therefore immediately removed our Baggage from the Benares into the Trankey-Pilot Boat, to proceed with it in charge of my Servant George to Bussora at the same time with ourselves.

Having given Lieut. Nesbitt a Draft on my Agents at Bombay for Four Hundred Rupees, as a remuneration for my Passage from Bombay, and having also given a Present of some money to his Steward and other Servants, we took our leave of Lieut. Nesbitt and his Officers, and left the Benares at 10,O'Clock a.m. removing into Mr. Manesty's Boat the Balloon, in Company with Mr. Stewart and Captain Blake of the Ship Euphrates.

We had a very pleasant and expeditious Passage from Haffar up the River to Bussora; off which we found lying at anchor several small Turkish Ships of War, all of whom hoisted their Colours in Compliment to those of the British Nation which were flying on board of our Boat as we passed through this little Fleet to Bussora Creek leading to the British Factory. — At ½ past Two O'Clock we landed at the British Factory, where we were most kindly received and welcomed by Mr. Manesty, to whom I introduced Dr. Thomas and Lieut. Brande; for whom as well as myself he ordered Apartments to be prepared immediately.

After delivering Mr. Manesty the Public Packet Pr. the Benares, and his own private Letters from Bombay, he gave us all the news respecting our present disputes with the Turkish Government. — It appears that the British Ambassador, Mr. Arbuthnot, after the recent rupture between our Court and the Porte, on account of the latter having declared War against our faithful allies the Russians, had been obliged to embark at Constantinople on board the British Squadron there, Commanded by Adml. Louis; and consequently all intercourse of a friendly nature has ever since ceased between the British and Ottoman Courts.

The East India Company's Packets, to and from England, have all been detained for these two months past at either Bagdad or Constantinople - and no more are suffered to pass by that Route. — A flying report prevails here that an action has lately taken place between the British and Turkish Fleets in the Dardanells, [sic] in which the latter was worsted with considerable loss of men and ships. — Mr. Manesty has already received orders from the Bashaw of Bagdad to quit Bussora, his presence being no longer there as British Resident; leaving, however, entirely to himself the time and manner of doing so, without inconvenience or hurry.

Mr. Manesty is accordingly preparing to quit Bussora, and retire to Bushire till such time as matters are again accommodated with the Ottoman Court. —

Under all these untoward circumstances, our present situation and prospects, in regard to our Overland Journey, are peculiarly distressing and embarrassing; and we are naturally very apprehensive that we shall be forced to abandon our Enterprize entirely and return again to Bombay.

But Mr. Manesty kindly assures us that he will exert himself to the utmost, and use all his interest and influence in the first instance, with the Mussaleem (-Mitselem-) or Governor of Bussora, to obtain leave for us to proceed as far as Bagdad; and there also with the Bashaw to obtain his final sanction to our prosecuting our intended Journey through the Turkish Territories from Bagdad either direct by Constantinople – or by Teflis and Russia. —

In the event of obtaining the Mussaleem's permission to proceed to Bagdad, Mr. Manesty has kindly offered me the use thither of a most commodious covered Boat, belonging to himself -; but which he had long ago fitted up purposely for me, when he first heard from me by Letter that it was my intention to come this way.

These kind assurances from Mr. Manesty revived our drooping spirits – and brightened our hopes of still being able, through his means, of prosecuting our Overland Journey. —

The Town of Bussora is very large and populous, and is walled round; but the streets are all very narrow and the House of mean appearance and badly constructed; the British Factory being the best and most elegant Building in the whole City. — Bussora lies in 30° 33' N. Latd. - and in 47° 24' East Longitude from London. — It is 1584 British miles distant from Bombay by Sea – by the nearest course; — and it is 90 miles from the Bar at the mouth of the River. —

Mr. Manesty's Family, as Resident of Bussora, besides himself, consists of Dr. Colquhoun as Surgeon to the Residency, and who also acts at present as his Assistant – and Mr. Stewart who lives with him as his friend.

We sat down at 4,O'Clock to an elegant Dinner of two Courses, and were entertained with most liberal and kind hospitality. — We had Khaloons after Dinner – and Tea & Coffee in the Evening; – and at an early hour we retired to rest.

Before we broke up from Table, I found that Mr. Stewart and myself were from the same Country, he being from Appin in Argyleshire. —

Thursday 23d. April 1807.
We were informed this forenoon by Mr. Manesty that he has already set on foot a negotiation with the Mussaleem respecting us, but that he starts a great many objections to our proceeding any farther on our Journey from hence overland. — He has, however, promised to take it into serious consideration, and to give a decided answer tomorrow to Mr. Manesty's request in our behalf. —

Friday 24th. April 1807.
Soon after Breakfast this morning, Mr. Manesty was so good as to communicate to us the very agreeable intelligence that the Mussaleem has given his consent to our proceeding immediately to Bagdad by Water, in order there to obtain the Bashaw's final Permission to prosecute our Journey thence overland. —

Mr. Manesty was at the same time pleased to signify to me privately his wishes that I would undertake the charge and conveyance of the two Packets received from India per the Prince of Wales and Benares, for the Court of Directors in England; and that if I chose to agree to his proposal he would take it upon himself to advance me on the Hon'ble Company's account the sum of Five Thousand Rupees to defray the expence of conveying the Packets to England. I closed immediately with Mr. Manesty's proposal promising to take the greatest care of the Dispatches in question, and to use every practicable dispatch and celerity in conveying them to England – where I hoped to deliver them in 4 months from the day of my leaving Bussora.

Mr. Manesty then said he would address an official Letter to me on this subject, requesting of me in a formal manner to take charge of the two Packets in question, on Public grounds of National Utility, to which he begged my answer in writing; promising to have the Dispatches and every thing else ready for my setting out from Bussora for Bagdad in two or three days. — He has also of his own accord, agreed to pay the expence of Boat-hire and People to man and Guard her to Bagdad, exclusive of the Five Thousand Rupees !

Sunday 26th. April —
After Dinner, Mr. Manesty did me the favor to introduce me to Mrs. Manesty who had been for some days past confined to her own Private Apartments indisposed. — Mrs. Manesty is an Armenian by Birth of a respectable Family, and has brought her Husband no less than 13 Children – four of whom only are alive – two Sons and two Daughters. — Mrs. Manesty is still a beautiful Woman, and very pleasing in her manners. — Her eldest Daughter Miss Manesty being in England, and engaged to be married there, she has entrusted me with the care of a beautiful Diamond Ring as a present for her, together with a Letter -; both which I have promised to Miss Manesty out of my own hand soon after my arrival in England. — I sat for near two hours with Mrs. Manesty and then took my leave of her. —

Monday 27th. Apl. 1807.
Finding that Mr. Manesty will certainly be able to Dispatch me this Evening or tomorrow morning, I devoted the whole of this day to writing my Letters to my Friends in India – as Pr. List – and which I have left in charge of Mr. Manesty.

I wrote long Letters to my friends Govr. Duncan and Mr. Chas. Forbes at Bombay, giving them a full account of all my Proceedings up to this date, with my future plans. —

Mr. Manesty has prepared and fitted up in a most commodious manner a very large elegant Boat to convey myself and Companions hence to Bagdad; with a Crew of 3 Nokadas & 20 Trackers to Navigate her; together with a Chokadar to command and two Turkish soldiers as a Guard.

In addition to all these, he was so good as to hire an Interpreter named Mastroode who speaks English, Arabick, [sic] and Turkish fluently, to accompany us as our Linguist – and also a Cook; making in all 28 Persons besides ourselves and my Boy George. —

The hire & wages of all these men for the whole of the Trip, amounting to 1350 Piasters, Mr. Manesty has already paid them at Bussora. — But in case they behave well and get on quick to Bagdad, Mr. Manesty advises me to make them a handsome Present of 3 or 400 Piasters more on our arrival there.

Tuesday 28th. April 1807.
As soon as we had Breakfasted this morning, Mr. Manesty delivered me in charge the two Public Packets from the Governments in India and his own Public Dispatches for the Court of Directors in England; together with Letters from himself to the Bashaw of Bagdad, Mr. Hine the Acting British Resident there, and to the Montifick [sic] and other principal Arab Sheiks inhabiting the Banks of the Rivers Euphrates and Tigris.

Mr. Manesty also furnished me with a General Letter of Credit, and an especial one on Bagdad for Five Thousand Rupees. —

At a quarter past 9.a.m. we took leave of our kind good Host Mr. Manestyand our other Friends at the English Factory – full of gratitude for their hospitable and most kind attention to us – and embarked on board of our little elegant Yacht – bearing the Turkish Colours on account of our having the protection and passport of the Mussaleem.

We rowed down the Creek, at the mouth of which, we met and took on board the rest of our Crew. — We then commenced to Track up the Shat el Arab, at 10 – and passed Margill at 11,O'Clock in the forenoon. —

Wednesday 29th. April 1807.
At 6.a.m. arrived at Chorna or Corny – the confluence of the two great celebrated Rivers Euphrates and Tigris; the latter running E.N.E. – and the former nearly West. — The Shat el Arab – or Bussora River ends at Chorna, which is 90 miles from Bussora.

Chorna is a small walled Town, and the Tongue of Land on which it stands between these two fine Rivers is very rich and well cultivated.

This place is celebrated for being supposed to be the real Scite [sic] of the Garden of Eden ! — We walked on shore through these sacred Grounds for about half an hour; and I pulled a fine Ear of Corn out of a Field of excellent Wheat almost quite ripe, close to the Walls of the Town, and mean to preserve this holy relic to carry home with me. — After enjoying our walk in the Garden of Eden, we embarked again at 7,O'Clock, and pursued our Voyage up the Tigris; tracking at the rate of about 3 miles an hour. —

Before we reached Chorna, and a little below the confluence of the two Rivers, we passed a Turkish Galley – stationed there to collect Customs and protect the Trade. —

Thursday 30th. April —
At 1.P.M. arrived at the Camp of the Montefick [sic] Sheik near the Town of Soogle Shoogh I sent Mr. Manesty's Letter to the Sheik by our Chokadar, by whom he returned a complimentary message, and after nearly an hour's halt, we continued our Voyage again; having previously written a Letter from the Sheik's Camp to my good friend Mr. Manesty dated 1,O'Clock.

At 3.P.M. Passed the Town of Soogle Shoogh – large & populous, and walled round; – being about 110 miles distant from Chorna. —

I sent Mr. Manesty's Letter to the Sheik of this place, to which he returned a very polite message and offer of Service. — We then continued our Voyage up the River.

At 12 OClock at Night we quitted the great River Euphrates and entered the River Hie, which connects the Euphrates with the Tigris; the mouth of the Hie being about 24 miles from Soogle Shoogh. — Total distance from Bussora to the River Hie 224 miles ! —

Provenance
Lachlan Macquarie. Journal 18 March 1807 - 17 October 1807.
Original mss. held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Reference: A771 pp. 5-39 [Microfilm: CY Reel 300 Frames #435-#469].