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1804

August

Augt. 1.
Wednesday. — I set out from the Town of Inverness at 8,O'Clock this morning, and arrive at Fort George at 10,O'Clock. — Breakfast at the Inn, and wait afterwards on the Lieut. Governor The Honble. Coll. Stewart. — I then walked round the works and visited the different Parts of this beautiful Fortress, the works of which are very regular, and kept in high order and repair, as well as the Barracks and other Public Buildings within the Fort.

I called upon the Barrack Master Capt. Thos. Fraser, an old Brother Officer of mine in the 71st. Regt. in America, and whom I was very sorry to find in very bad health and confined to his Bed. —

Set out again from Fort George at Noon. — Passed through the Town of Nairn, and stopped to dine at the Town of Forres. — I called after Dinner on Mr. John Gordon Mercht. at Forres, at the particular desire of his Nephew my Friend Lt. Colonel Gordon the Adjt. Genl. at Bombay.

I staid [sic] to Drink Tea with Mr. Gordon and his Family – with whom I remained for about an hour; and then prosecuting my Journey again Eastward, arrived at the Town of Elgin at 8,O'Clock at Night: – Distant from Inverness 45 miles. —

As soon as I put up my Horse at the Inn, I went before it became quite dark to view the Ruins of the once grand and beautiful Cathedral of Elgin, which is still well worth seeing – it being a noble Pile of Building even in its present mouldered state and decay. —

I supped at the Inn and went early to Bed, being a good deal fatigued after my long ride. —

Augt. 2.
Thursday. — Having bespoke a Post Chaise over–night, I set out in it at 6,O'Clock this morning in order to visit the Revd. Mr. Gordon Minister of within six miles of the Town of Elgin, and whom I had promised his Nephew Col: Gordon of Bombay to call upon if I passed this way. —

I found the good old Parson at home and staid [sic] to Breakfast with him, during which I had a great deal of conversation with him about his Nephew, and his own two sons who had lately died in India, and with both of whom I was acquainted. —

After staying for an hour with the good honest Parson, I took an affecting leave of him, with a Promise of calling upon him if ever I should again pass this way, and got back to Elgin about 10,O'Clock. —

Immediately on my return to Elgin I went to pay my respects to Lady Grant of grant at her Town Residence here, agreeably to my promise to Sir James in Inverness. — Her Ladyship received me very politely, and pressed me to pass a few days with herself and her Family at Elgin until Sir James should return home; but this I was obliged to decline. — At Lady Grant's I met with old General Grant of Ballindallach, whom I knew a little of in London, by meeting him occasionally at my good old friend General Marsh's House. Genl. Grant was just on the point setting out for his Seat at Ballindallach, and gave me a very kind and pressing invitation to accompany him thither and pass some days with him there; – and as the General's place of Residency lay exactly in my proposed Route in passing through Strathspey, I very readily accepted his polite Invitation, but could only promise to remain one day with him. —

I took leave of Lady Grant, and set out from Elgin at Noon on Horseback; the General having set out at the same time in his Post Chaise, having his Aid–de–Camp Captain Mc.Gregor with him. — I had a very pleasant charming Ride along the Banks of the fine large rapid River Spey to Genl. Grant's House at Ballindallach, which is situated on the right Bank of that River, and where I arrived at 4,O'clock in the Afternoon, about half an hour after the General himself. — The distance from Elgin to the General's Seat is 20 Miles, and the Road all the way is very good.

On my arrival I was shewn into an excellent Bed–Room by Capt. Mc.Gregor to dress in before Dinner, which he announced would be ready at 5,O'Clock. — I accordingly dressed immediately, and then waited on the General – who received me in a very polite friendly manner in his Drawing Room. — The only Company here with him, besides his Aid–de–Camp, were, the Parson of the Parish, and his Factor Mr. Grant. — At 5,O'Clock precisely, we adjourned to the Dining Room to a most excellent Sumptuous Dinner of everything that was good or rare; the General being remarkable all over the World for his good living, and for being one of the greatest Epicures of the age. — We had also great variety of most excellent choice Wines, of which the Hospitable Host insisted on our freely partaking.

At 7,O'Clock we had Coffee, and then adjourned to the Drawing Room, where we plaid [sic] Cards till 9,O'Clock; at which hour we again returned to the Dining Room where Supper was served, and at which we sat talking till Ten O'Clock – when we all retired to our respective Sleeping Apartments. — This, I understand, is the good old General's regular mode of living when at Ballindallach, whether his company is great or small.

Augt. 3.
Friday. — I got early up this morning and took a long walk through the Grounds of Ballindallach, which are extremely well laid out – and well–wooded with old Tress.

The Mansion House here is a very old Building, but the Rooms inside are Modernized, and very handsomely furnished. — The Out–Houses or offices are new and very complete. — The Larder is a Separate Room from the Principal Offices, and is extremely well worth seeing; it being kept very clean, neat, and airy – and filled with all sorts of Butcher's Meat, Poultry, and every kind of Game. —

At Nine O'Clock we sat down to Breakfast, exactly as the Clock struck the Hour. — The General did not make his appearance, being rather fatigued after his journey of yesterday, and desired we might not wait for him, as he meant to remain in Bed for some Hours. — The General has only just arrived from London, and at Eighty years of age it is no wonder he should be fatigued after so long a Journey by Land. —

I begged of Capt. Mc.Gregor to make my apology to the General for going away without taking Leave of him, being limited for time, and having Breakfasted I set out at 11. a.m. on my Journey; travelling this day also along the Banks of the Spey through Strathspey. — Soon after leaving Ballindallach, I was overtaken with very heavy Rain, which continued during the whole of the rest of the day, and rendered my Ride a very unpleasant one. —

I had a very good view, however, on the opposite side of the Spey, of Castle–Grant the ancient Family Seat of Sir James Grant, and at some little distance from it of Grant–Town, which is a very pretty neat Village built close to the Left Bank of the river Spey. —

At 2,O'Clock in the afternoon, after a wet Ride of 15 miles from Ballindallach, I arrived at the Manse of Abernethy, where I was most kindly and hospitably received by the Revd. Mr. Grant, the Father of my much esteemed friend Jas. Augs. Grant Esqr. Secry. to the Government of Bombay – and to whom I had promised on my leaving India to visit his worthy Father & Family at Abernethy. — They were accordingly very happy to see me at their House, and paid me every possible attention. The Family consisted of Mr. & Mrs. Grant, an only Daughter and their youngest Son; their three eldest Sons being in India. — I spent a very pleasant day with this good worthy Family – and they were quite delighted with the pleasing accounts I gave them of their Sons in India – and of their success and Prosperity there. —

Augt. 4.
Saturday. — I Breakfasted with my worthy friends at the Manse, and set out from Abernethy at Ten O'Clock, accompanied by my kind Host – the Parson – who rode along with me for Six miles of my Journey; which now was directed to the upper Parts of Aberdeenshire. — After conducting me to nearly the Boundary of his Parish, Mr. Grant took his leave of me to return Home, and I pursued my Journey at rather a quicker rate – the Country here being very wild and desolate; the Roads too being very bad indeed.

At a place called Korgoff [?] I quitted Inverness–shire near the Head of Strathdonne. — At this place I struck to the Left, and travelled along the Left Bank of the River–Donne till I arrived at the House of New [sic] on the Estate of that Name belonging to my good old friend John Forbes Esqr., but which is now occupied by Mrs. Forbes, the Mother of my much esteemed and excellent Friend Charles Forbes Esqr. of Bombay – and to whom I made a promise when I left that Place to visit his good Mother and Family at New. [sic] — I arrived here at 6,O'Clock in the Evening, after a most dreary ride of 30 Miles from Abernethy; the only halt I made during which, was at a place called Tamintoule, (?) in Inverness–shire, to rest and Bait my Horses.

I found Mrs. Forbes at Home; also her three sons, one Daughter, her Daughter in law (Mrs. Major Forbes) and Miss Forbes Senr — Sister to Mr. Jno. Forbes of New. [sic] — The good old Lady was extremely happy to see me, as were also the rest of her Family, and I spent a very pleasant Evening with them; being all highly gratified with the accounts I was able to give them of the happiness and prosperity of my good Friend Charles and his Family. —

Augt. 5.
Sunday — I staid [sic] to Breakfast with the good old Lady Mrs. Forbes and her Family at New, [sic] and immediately afterwards pursued my Journey through the upper part of Aberdeen–shire towards Angus–shire. — Major Forbes was so obliging as to accompany me for about seven miles on my Journey. I crossed the River Don (or Donne) at New. — I halted at Aboyne alias Charletown on the Left Bank of the Dee for about an hour to rest and Bait my horses, and then crossed that river at this place, where it was very much swelled and difficult to ford. Halted a second time at Cutty's–Hillock to take some refreshment and Bait my Horses; and then pursued my Journey again through a very wild uncultivated Country, most of the way over a Moor, with very bad Roads; so that I was Compelled to ride very slow. — At 8.P.m. I arrived at the village of Fettercairn in Angus–shire, which is 34 miles from New, alias Nowe, that I took my departure from this morning. — Here I halted for the Night, and put up at a small neat Inn, where I got a very good Supper. —

Augt. 6.
Monday. — At 7. a.m. set out from Fettercairn – and after a very pleasant Ride through a fine well cultivated of Country and excellent Roads, arrive at the Town of Montrose at 9,O'Clock, and put up at a very good Inn, where I Breakfasted. — I then took a walk through the Town, and Called upon old Lady Carnegie of Southesk; but my Visit was principally to my friend Miss Carnegie, who was lately one of my fellow Travellers from London to Edinburgh. — I found the Ladies at Home, and staid [sic] for about an hour with them. — I then returned to the Inn, ordered my horses, and pursued my Journey again at 12,O'Clock. — I had a charming Ride from Montrose to Parkhill, near the Town of Arbroath, the Seat of my worthy and much esteemed friend Doctor Alexr. Duncan; and to whom I was under the greatest Obligations in China, when there in 1796, labouring under the severest of all Human afflictions.

I arrived at Parkhill at 2,O'Clock in the afternoon, after a Journey of 24 Miles from Fettercairn, the place I left this morning. — I found my excellent Friend, the Doctor at Home, and most happy to see me at his House. — He lost no time in introducing me to his young Wife, who appears to be a very amiable woman. — They both gave me a most hearty welcome, and paid me every attention in their power. — We dined early at Parkhill; and after Dinner my friend the Doctor was so good as to treat me to a very pleasant Ride in his Gig as far as the Town of Arbroath (distant about four miles) to Visit Mrs. Gleg, the wife of the Revd. Mr. Gleg Minister of that Place, and the Sister of my friend Governor Duncan of Bombay, to whom I promised to visit his Sister. — Mr. & Mrs. Gleg and their young Family were all at Home, and were very happy to see me at their House. — Mrs. Gleg introduced me to all her Children – two Sons and Seven Daughters! — I drank Tea with them, and after staying with them for near two hours talking about the Governor, I returned Home to Parkhill with Doctor Duncan between 9 and 10,O'Clock at Night.

We then sat down to a very sociable pleasant Family Party at Supper, and retired to Bed between 11 and 12. —

Augt. 7.
Tuesday. — I staid [sic] to Breakfast with my Friends at Parkhill, having got up early in the morning to walk along with Doctor Duncan over his Grounds and through his Garden. — He is now busy at work building a handsome modern New House and will make Parkhill a very pretty Place in a short time. —

At 11,O'Clock I took leave of Mrs. Duncan, and set out along with the Doctor in his Gig, in which he was so kind as to carry me on my Journey as far as the Town of Forfar, the County Town of Angus.

Here my good and worthy friend Doctor Duncan took an affectionate leave of me, making me promise to Visit him again at Parkhill whatever time I came to settle permanently in Scotland. — From Forfar I had a very pleasant Ride through a fine cultivated Country –; and passing Glamis at some distance on my Left, arrive at Lindertis–House (in Angus–shire) the Seat of Capt. William Ogilvy of the Royal Navy, who is married to Miss Sarah Morley, the Eldest Daughter of the late James Morley Esqr. of Bombay. — My two Sisters–in–law Mrs. Morley and Mrs. Scott, are now here on a Visit to Capt. and Mrs. Morley. — Reached Lindertis at 4,O'clock in the afternoon after a Ride of 21 Miles from Parkville. —

I found Capt. & Mrs. Ogilvy and my two Sisters at Home. — They were all extremely happy to see me, and Capt. and Mrs. Ogilvy gave a most kind and hearty welcome on my arrival at their House. — As soon as the Ladies had dressed, we took a short walk through the Grounds, and returned to Dinner at 6,O'Clock. — We had a charming sociable Family Party, and we spent the rest of the Evening most pleasantly and agreeably. —

Augt. 8.
Wednesday. — We Breakfasted at 9,O'Clock, and I was prevailed upon by the Ladies to stay all this day with them at Lindertis. —

After Breakfast I accompanied Capt. & Mrs. Ogilvy and Mrs. Scott in the Chariot to pay a Visit in the Neighbourhood to Mr. and Miss Ogilvy at Ila–Bank – a very pretty Place and of which Estate the young Lady is the Heiress, being the only Child of Mr. Ogilvy, who is an elderly Gentleman. — We took some Refreshment here, and Mr. Ogilvy and his Daughter were very desirous that we should stay and dine with them; but this we could not do, having left Mrs. Morley at Home alone. — We accordingly returned to Lindertis, where we arrived about 3,O'Clock after a very pleasant Ride.

After dressing, we all walked out in the Garden, and through the Grounds, for about an hour, and then returned Home to a most excellent Dinner. —

We passed the remainder of the Evening cheerfully and Sociably; and as I had determined to take my departure very early next morning, I took leave of the Ladies and my kind Host at Breaking up from Supper. —

Augt. 9.
Thursday. — I set out from Lindertis at 7,O'Clock this morning, and enjoyed a charming morning's ride through the beautiful rich varigated [sic] Country of Strathmore to the village of Blair–gowrie, where I halted to Breakfast and bait my Horses.

The Shire of Angus terminates near this place, and enter that of Perth soon after leaving Blair–gowrie, which I did immediately after Breakfast.

From this place to Dunkeld I had rather a dreary ride through a hilly and ill cultivated country – the Roads also being bad. —

I reached the Town of Dunkeld, in Perthshire, the Seat of the Duke of Athol, about 1,O'Clock, and halted at the Inn to bait and rest my Horses.

In the mean time I took a walk through the Town, and the Grounds of the Duke of Athol. — The Town is neat and clean, and the Duke's Grounds are beautifully laid out. The Town and the Duke's Palace are both beautifully situated in a Vale close on the Banks of the River Tay, Surrounded by lofty Hills finely Clothed with Wood. —

At 2.P.M. Leave Dunkeld and pursue my Journey through a beautiful romantick [sic] Country along the Banks of the fine River Tay, which was now full up to its Banks in consequence of the late heavy falls of Rain. — Cross the Tumul–River, in a Ferry Boat, at a place called Lockereit, where this small River falls into the Tay; and about 6,O'Clock in the Evening, after a most charming Ride of 33 miles from Lindertis, arrive at Ballechin – the Seat of Mr. Stewart [sic] of that Title – and who was married some little time since to Miss Louisa Morley, the Second Daughter of the late Jas. Morley Esqr. — I found Mr. and Mrs. Stewart at Home, and they both received me in the kindest and most friendly manner, knowing before–hand from my friends at Lindertis that I intended calling upon them. — Here I had also the pleasure of meeting with my friend the amiable Miss Anne Morley, who was at this time on a visit to her Sister at Ballechin. —

We sat down to a most excellent Dinner soon after my arrival, and I spent a very pleasant agreeable Evening with this very sociable Hospitable Family, from whom I experienced every possible attention; and regretted that my time would not admit of my accepting their kind invitation of passing some days with them.

I took my leave of them on our breaking up from Supper, intending to set out the following morning.

Augt. 10.
Friday. — I set out from Ballechin at 7,O'Clock this morning; and passing through the beautiful Strath–Tay, close along the Left Bank of this Noble River, arrive at 9,O'Clock at Taymouth, the magnificent and truly elegant Picturesque Seat of the Earl of Breadalbane – distance 14 miles from Ballechin. — View the new House or Castle now building here for the Residence of the Earl, Ride through the Grounds, and afterwards up to the Fort on the Hill to the Southward of the Castle, from which there is a most extensive, grand, and beautiful Prospect of Loch–Tay, the River, the lower Grounds, the Village of Kenmuir, and of all the other grand and romantick [sic] Scenery of this lovely and delightful Place, which exceeds in Beauty any thing I have yet seen in Great Britain! —

After feasting my Eyes with the Enchanting Prospect from "The Fort", I proceeded to the village of Kenmuir within about a mile of Taymouth, and halted for an hour at the Inn there to Breakfast and to Bait and rest my Horses. — The Earl of Breadalbane and his Family were not yet arrived at Taymouth from London; so that I had not the opportunity of paying my respects to them here, which I very much regretted. — Having Breakfasted I left Kenmuir, and prosecuted my Journey along the North Side of Loch–Tay, and enjoyed a charming Ride to the Village of Killihn; where I halt for about an hour at the Inn to rest and bait my Horses, and then again prosecute my Journey.

About half a mile from the Inn at Killihn cross over to the South Side of the River, along a very good neat Bridge; close to which there are numerous small Islets and Large Rocks that interrupt the regular current of this Rapid River, and form very pretty little foaming Cascades. — In the middle of the River, a little below the Bridge, there is a beautiful small Island, on which is the Burying Place of the Laird of Mc.Nabb; whose Estate and Place of Residence is contiguous to this spot, on the South Side of the Tay. —

I halted next at the Inn at Luibe in Glen–Dochart to rest and bait my Horses – and remained there for half an hour. — I then pursued my Journey, and had a very wet disagreeable Ride from Luibe to the Inn at Tayndroum, where I arrived at 7,O'Clock in the Evening, after performing this day a Journey of 51 miles from Ballechin!

It rained almost incessantly – and very heavilly [sic] – from the time I left the Inn at Killihn till my arrival at Tayndroum, where, however, I got very good accommodation. —

Augt. 11.
Saturday! — I set out from Tayndroum at 7,O'Clock this morning, and travelling through the wild and barren Glen–Lochie, arrived at the Inn at Dalmalhie [sic] at 9,O'Clock, after a disagreeable dreary ride of 13 miles.

I Breakfasted at this place and remained here for a full Hour to rest and bait my horses. — I then renewed my Journey round the North–East end of Lochowe, and had a very pleasant romantick [sic] ride to Tayn–Uilt, where I halted again for another Hour to bait and rest my Horses – the last stage being 14 miles, and once more renewed my Journey.

It came on to rain very heavilly [sic] soon after I left the Inn of Tayn–Uilt and continued to do so the rest of the Day.

I travelled by the side of Loch–Etive, the River Awe &c. &c. through this heavy rain for 13 miles to the Town of Oban – where I arrived at 3,O'Clock in the afternoon; my journey this day from Tayndroum being 40 Miles. —

I set out on this tour exactly this day fortnight from Oban, and have in these 14 Days travelled no less than 414 measured miles on Horse–back, without halting anywhere for an entire day excepting at Lindertis, and both my horses are now as fresh and strong as they were when I first set out from hence on this short flying Tour of mine; by which, however, I have been very highly gratified and amused. —

I Put up my Horses at the Inn at Oban, but took up my own abode with my friends Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, who kindly insisted on my coming to their House; and with whom I dined and spent the rest of this day very pleasantly. —

Augt. 12.
Sunday! — Having Breakfasted with Mr. & Mrs. Stevenson and their Daughter, and leaving my Horses to be taken care of by the Inn–Keeper at Oban; I embarked from this place at 11,O'Clock this forenoon, accompanied by my trusty good Servant Wm Stewart, on my return to Mull, on board of a Boat hired for the purpose to carry me direct to Loch–Spelve–Head; – Mrs. Stevenson having most kindly sent a plentiful supply of Provisions on board of the boat in case of our having a long Passage; which in fact proved to be the case. — The Wind was contrary the greater part of the way, and we did not arrive at Loch–Spelve–Head till 5,O'Clock in the afternoon. — I consequently dined very heartily on board whilst we were working up Loch–Spelve; as did also my Man Stewart, and all the Boat's Crew: – Mrs S. having sent a sufficient Quantity of good things to serve us all! —

I walked from Loch–Spelve–Head to Lochbuy–House, where I arrived at 6,O'Clock in the Evening just as the Family were going to sit down to drink Tea, and most unexpectedly; none of them having any idea that I could possibly perform my late Tour in so very short a space of time.

I had the happiness of finding my aunt Mrs. Maclaine in perfect good health; her Sister Miss Campbell and my Brother Charles still here with her. — They were all happy to see me back again amongst them, and I entertained them during the rest of the Evening with recital of my Travels. On inquiry I was rejoiced to find that my dear good Mother – and the rest of my Family at Oskamull were all in good health by the latest accounts from thence.

Augt. 20.
Monday! — I have remained – and also my Brother for the last Eight days constantly at Lochbuy; and we have amused ourselves principally with reading, walking, and Fishing; at which last Diversion Miss Campbell is particular expert and successful in. — We were this morning deprived of the agreeable society of this most amiable, agreeable, and very sensible Girl, whose departure occasions sincere regret to all of us. She set out early this morning before any one was stirring in a small Open Boat for Crinnan, without any other Company or Society than the Boat's Crew!!!

This Girl is quite a Heroine! —What a most excellent soldier's Wife she would make! – and happy – in my mind – will that man be whose good fortune it may happen to be if he get her! —

After much importunity I was length able to prevail upon Miss Campbell to accompany her two young Nephews and myself from Inverary to Edinburgh in my Carriage after she has seen and visited all her friends in Argyle and Cantire, [sic] whither she is now gone for that purpose; but she has agreed to meet me at Inverary on the 28th. Instant – by which day it is my intention to be there. —

Augt. 21.
Tuesday! — My Brother Charles and myself set out from Lochbuy–House this morning after Breakfast, on a visit to and to take leave of our dear good Mother, previous to our both leaving this Country to return again to our respective Duties in England and Ireland – that period being now close at hand. — We travelled by Mam–an–Trotan, Rossall, Kilfinichan, and Gribbon [sic] on Horseback, attended only by my Boy George as our Servant. We arrived at our old Chief & relation Mc.Quarie's House at Gribbon [sic] at 5,O'Clock in the Evening; and tho' it was our wish and intention to proceed directly to our Mother's at Oskamull, yet as Mc.Quarie made a point of it we agreed to stay and pass this Night with him at his own House, where he did not fail to entertain and treat us with his usual hearty Hospitality! —

Augt. 22.
Wednesday. — After Breakfasting with Mc.Quarie at Gribbon [sic], we crossed over to Ulva to visit the Staffa Family. — There we met our worthy good friend Colonel Maclean of Coll, his Daughter Miss Maclean, and our dear Cousin Miss Maclaine Lochbuy, all of whom had only arrived here a Couple [of] days before from Coll.

We staid [sic] for a couple of hours at Ulva with the Staffa Family (Mr. Macdonald being at this time at Home), and our other Friends there; during which it was agreed that our Cousin Jane should return with my Broyr. and myself next day to Lochbuy; it being Coll's intention to return Home again with his Daughter the next day. — We then took our leave of our friends at Ulva, and crossed to Oskamull, where we had the happiness of finding our dear Mother and sister both in very good health. —

We announced to out Mother the absolute necessity we were both now under of returning immediately back to our respective Posts in England and Ireland; that we therefore came to take leave of her – and to pass this day with her previous to our departure. — She felt poignantly the necessity of Separation – but had too much sense not to see that it was unavoidable on our part. — Our friends Mr. & Mrs. Maclean of Laggan came to dine with us at our Mother's and we spent the day as cheerfully and pleasantly as present Circumstances and the gloom of recent events – and our approaching departure, would admit.

I promised my Mother that I would certainly come to reside permanently on my Estate in Mull as soon as the present War with France should be over, and that it was my full intention to build a good House and found a respectable Family Seat on my Estate of Jarvisfield – either on the Farm of Callachilly, or that of Gruline; and Charles made her, at same time, a like promise of coming to settle on his Estate of Glenforsa at the end of the present War. — In order also to make our dear good Mother's present situation at Oskamull more comfortable as well as more respectable for her remaining days, I have planned and directed to be carried into immediate execution considerable improvements and additions to her present House at Oskamull; which I wish to render more commodious and comfortable for herself and such of her Family and Friends as may occasionally Visit her here. — I have likewise informed her that I have requested of my Aunt to supply from time to time with whatever money she may have occasion for; and also, with such articles of Wines & Groceries as may be necessary for her use – which list Mrs. Maclaine has kindly undertaken to commission along with her own Family Stores from the Low Country annually. —

In talk and conversation of this kind, and other Domestic Concerns, we passed the Evening, after Mr. & Mrs. Maclean Laggan had taken leave and gone Home; and it afforded us great pleasure to find that our good dear aged Parent was quite reconciled to our departure hence at present, tho' at first the mention of it only gave her very great uneasiness indeed. —

Augt. 23.
Thursday! — My Brother Charles went over early this morning for our Cousin Jane Lochbuy, who had agreed to return Home along with us. — She accordingly came with Charles to Breakfast with her Aunt at Oskamull, where they arrived between 8 and 9,O'Clock.

Soon after Breakfast we took an affectionate and affecting Leave of our dear Mother and Sister, and set out by Water from Oskamull for Knock, in the Boat belonging to the Farm, in which our Brother–in–law Farquhar, Chas. Mc.Quarie the Mercht., and Charles's young Hero Hector, accompanied us. — We had a pleasant Sail up Lochnagaul to Knock, where we arrived about 1,O'Clock, having sent our Horses on before us thither by Land. — Our good friends Mr. and Mrs. Campbell of Knock insisting on our staying to dine with them, we agreed to do so, and they accordingly ordered an early Dinner on purpose to give us sufficient time afterwards to reach Lochbuy before dark. — We had a most excellent Dinner – and staid [sic] with our Hospitable friends at Knock till 4,O'clock; – when Miss Maclaine my Broyr., and myself took leave, mounted our Horses, and set out for Lochbuy. — Farqr. Maclaine, and our other friends from Oskamull, returned thither soon after our arrival at Knock. — I called at Gruline for a few minutes to speak with and take leave of Mr. John Maclean; and then followed Miss Maclaine and Charles.

We travelled along Loch Bauw and Glen–Cannel – and over Mauma–Tuimban to Lochbuy, and had the pleasure of finding our Aunt Mrs. Maclaine and her young Family all well. — On our arrival at Lochbuy, we found that the Vessel which was to carry back my Broyr. Charles had arrived the day before for Ireland.

He therefore fixed his departure – as I did also mine – for Monday the 27th. Instant. — We consequently apprized our poor dear Aunt of our intention of leaving her on that day at farthest, at which she was excessively grieved, tho' fully sensible of the necessity of it. —

Augt. 24.
Friday. The intermediate time between this and our departure was busily employed by Charles in arranging and settling our Aunt's Domestic affairs, in regard to her Accounts, and making regulations for her own Farm of Moy, and the mode of managing it. —

Augt. 25.
Saturday. — My Brother Charles's young son Hector arrived this day at Lochbuy from Oskamull, it having been my intention to carry him out with me to Edinburgh in order to place him at School there; but on his arrival here it was found expedient – on account of his present state of health – to leave him at Lochbuy–House for a couple of months longer until he gets well – and then to be sent up to Edinburgh. — This is really a very fine handsome smart Boy. — He is now about Ten Years of age, and promises to turn out very well from present appearances. — I have determined – and have signified so to his Father, to be at the entire expence of Educating this Boy, and to give him a complete Classical and genteel Education. —

Augt. 26.
Sunday. — We were part of this day busy preparing for our departure tomorrow. – Our poor Aunt and all her lovely young Family are in the deepest distress at the thoughts of it, and at her parting at such a mournful period with her two darling Sons Murdoch and John, who are to accompany me to Edinburgh, in order to return to their former School at Musselburgh. —

This therefore has been rather a mournful and dull day in this Family; tho' my Brother and myself do all we can to cheer them and keep up their Spirits – promising to correspond with them all regularly during our unavoidable absence from them. — I have of my own accord signified and promised to my Aunt, that I should be at the entire Expence of the Education of her young Daughter – my little dear God–Daughter Jane–Jarvis Maclaine (–named after my late angelic and beloved wife–) as soon as she was arrived at an age to be sent to a regular Boarding–School. — This is a remarkable fine child – and has a most striking likeness to her poor deceased Father; – but she is yet but 2½ years of age.

My poor dear Uncle intended always – if he had been blessed with another son – to call him after me; but his naming his last and youngest child after my Angelic Jane, is still much more gratifying to my feelings than if he had even realised his own original wish. —

Augt. 27.
Monday! — This morning soon after Breakfast, I took an affectionate leave of my Aunt Mrs. Maclaine and all my dear Female Cousins at Lochbuy–House, I set out from thence accompanied by my two Cousins Murdoch and John, and my two Servants William Stewart and George.

I took leave of my dear Brother at the same time, who left Lochbuy–House at the same moment to Embark for Ireland on the Cutter now waiting here for him: – thus leaving our poor dear Aunt and her young Family in deep distress at our departure – which at so mournful a period, they all feel doubly affecting. My Cousins and myself and Servants Embarked at Loch–Spelve–head on board the large Crogan–Ferry–Boat, and after rather a tedious Passage landed at Oban at 4,O'Clock in the afternoon. —

We were most kindly received by our Friends Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, at whose House we dined and took up our abode for the rest of this day. — On our arrival at Oban, I was happy to find my Carriage ready waiting for me here, agreeably to my directions; it having been brought hither two days ago from Airds, on the arrival of a Driver and a Pair of good Horses from Dumbarton, from whence my friend Mr. Stevenson had commissioned them to come for me, at my own request signified to him sometime before. — I also found both my Horses in very good condition at the Inn at Oban, and fit for undertaking a second long Journey. — We all passed a pleasant Evening at Mr. & Mrs. Stevenson's, and retired early to Bed. —

Augt. 28.
Tuesday. — We took an early and hasty Breakfast with Mr. & Mrs. Stevenson, and then set out on our journey from Oban; my two Cousins and myself in the Carriage – and my Servants Stewart and George on Horseback. — We halted to take a regular Breakfast at the Inn of Tayn–Uilt for a full hour, and then prosecuted our Journey by Loch–Etive, River Au, Mucairn, and round the head of Loch–Awe to the Inn at Dalmalie – where we halted to dine and rest and bait our Horses. — We remained here for two hours, and then renewed our Journey to Inverary; within two miles of which we stopt [sic] for about half an hour to visit the Revd. Mr. Paul Fraser, married to a sister of the late Airds. — She had however gone some time before to Stirling on a visit to her Daughter there. — We took our leave of the Parson – and proceeded on to Inverary, where we arrived at Eight O'Clock at Night, and put up at the New Inn. — Here we had the pleasure of finding our amiable Relation and friend Miss Campbell Airds, who had only arrived about two Hours before us with some other Ladies (her friends) from Cantire. They had just dined at the Inn, and as they were going to sleep at the Houses of their Friends in Town, we took up the Dining Parlour they had just occupied. —

Augt. 29.
Wednesday. — The Revd. Mrs. Paul Fraser came to Breakfast with us at the Inn. — Our friend and relation Mc.Lachlan of Mc.Lachlan (who happened to be at this time at Inverary) soon afterwards called upon us at the Inn and was very glad to see us. — After Breakfast I went along with Mc.Lachlan to call upon Mr. Graham, The Duke of Argyle's Chamberlain; and having signified to him my wish to pay my respects to the Duke, he obligingly offered to accompany me to the Castle – whither we accordingly proceeded. — His Grace, however, being rather indisposed could not seen so early; — but his Sons, the Marquis of Lorne & Lord John Campbell, and his son in law Colonel Campbell (Younger of Shawfield) made their appearance and conversed with Mc.Lachlan and myself for some time in a very frank and friendly manner; and the marquis of Lorne delivered me an invitation from the Duke to dine with him this day – which I accepted. — I then left the Castle, and called on Miss Campbell Airds soon afterwards at the House of Mr. Patterson, whither I carried my two Cousins Murdoch & John to spend the Day with their Aunt. —

I informed Miss Campbell that I had Engaged myself to dine with the Duke, and that consequently we should not commence our Journey from hence for Edinburgh until early tomorrow morning – when she promised to be ready. —

I sent my Servant Stewart with my two young Cousins to shew them the Castle and the Duke's fine Park and Grounds. — I took a long ride in the afternoon along with the Revd. Mr. Fraser through the beautiful and extensive Grounds of the Duke of Argyle in the Vicinity of Inverary. —

At 6,O'Clock I accompanied my friend Mc.Lachlan to dine at the Castle, and were ushered into the Drawing Room, where the good old Duke soon made his appearance, and I had the honor of being Presented to himself and the rest of his Family; his two Daughters Lady Augusta Clavering and Lady Charlotte Campbell being both here. — We sat down to Dinner at half past 6,O'Clock, the Company being as follows: Vizt. The Duke himself, Lady Augusta, Lady Charlotte, Mrs. Campbell Carrick, Miss Campbell Shawfield, and Madamoiselle —— ——– the French Governess; the Marquis of Lorne, Lord John Colonel Campbell Shawfield Junr. Mr. Sheridan Junr., Mr. Lewis, Maclachlan, Mr. Graham, Doctor Alexr. Stewart, and myself in all 15. —

The good old Duke sat and drank heartily, was very sociable, and attentive to everyone. — He sat at the head of his own Table, with one of his Daughters on each hand of him.

Mr. Sheridan sung two or three most excellent Songs after Dinner, and then the Duke left us to take his usual Evening's Ride in his Carriage accompanied by his favorite Daughter Lady Charlotte. —

The rest of the Company remained at Table a good while after the Duke left us – and then we all adjourned to the Drawing Room to drink Tea with the Ladies.

At 9,O'Clock I took my leave and went to call Miss Campbell and my Cousins at Mr. Patterson's House, where I staid [sic] Supper – and then retired to sleep at the Inn. —

Augt. 30.
Thursday! — I got up very early this morning to settle and pay my Accounts at the Inn, and make the necessary arrangements for our Journey. — The Revd. Mr. Fraser having signified his intention to accompany us as far as Cairn–Dow, our first stage, I requested of him to ride so far in the Carriage along with Miss Campbell (his niece–in–law) and her Nephews, whilst I should ride this first Stage on Horseback from Choice. —

The Parson having agreed to this arrangement, we set out from the Town of Inverary at 7,O'Clock in the morning; my Boy George riding on Mr. Fraser's Horse. — The Weather was perfectly fair and remarkably fine when we set out; – but in about half an hour afterwards, it came on to rain very heavy indeed, and continued to do so the rest of the morning. — I rode on as fast as I could to Cairn–Dow, without waiting for the Carriage, but got most completely drenched before I arrived there, which I did half an hour before the Chaise. — I had a good fire and Breakfast prepared at the Inn at Cairn–Dow before my friends arrived there in the Carriage.

Having Breakfasted and taken leave of our friend Mr. Fraser, I took my Seat in the Chaise along with Miss Campbell and the two Boys, and set forward from Cairn–Dow about 10,O'Clock on our Journey. — We halted to dine and bait and rest our Cattle at the Inn at Earrecher [sic] at the head of Loch–Long. — Whilst Dinner was getting ready, Miss Campbell, the two Boys, and myself took a long walk along the Road leading to Dumbarton by the way of Tarbert and Loch–Lomond, and Continued our walk until we were in sight of that beautiful Lake. — We then walked back to Dinner, which we found ready for us on our return. —

At 4'O'Clock we again renewed our Journey, Travelling at an easy rate on a tolerable good Road round the Head of and by the side of Loch–Long. — We had a very pleasant Romantick [sic] Ride, and arrived at the Inn at Ardincaple – opposite to Roseneath, and within sight of the Town of Greenock – at 8,O'Clock at Night. — Here we were extremely well accommodated for the Night, the Inn being very good and the People very civil. — I find my friend Miss Campbell a most excellent Traveller, ready to put up with any fare and fatigue, as well as a most pleasant cheerful and agreeable Companion. —

We took an early light Supper here, and retired immediately afterwards to rest. — We got excellent Beds here. —

Augt. 31.
Friday. — Set out from Ardincaple at 6,O'Clock this morning, and had a very pleasant ride along the Clyde, and on an excellent Road to Dumbarton, where we halted to Breakfast and to rest ourselves and Cattle for about an hour. — Here I discharged and paid for the former, and hired a fresh Pair of Horses for the Carriage to Glasgow. — We left the Inn at Dumbarton about Ten, and arrived at Glasgow on a little before 12,O'clock, putting up at the New Inn there. — I announced to the Inn–Keeper our intention to dine there, but that we must set out for Stirling immediately afterwards, and desired him to have a Pair of Horses ready for us. — He told me however that he had not then any at Home, but expected to have a Pair back for our use in a couple of Hours. — In the interval Miss Campbell went to call on some of her friends in Town, as did I also on some of mine; leaving the two Boys under the care of my Servant Stewart at the Inn.—

I went to call first on poor Mrs. Maclean of Kilmory and her Family, and told her that I left her Daughter Grace in good health at Lochbuy. —

I called afterwards at Mr. Mc.Arthur's to see my worthy esteemed friend Doctor Colin Anderson's Son Colin, who is now attending College here and is under the care of Mr. Mc.Arthur. — He appears to be a fine Boy and promises to turn out very well. — His Father has lately Purchased a Cornetcy for him in the 19th. Light Dragoons.

After paying these and other Visits in Town I returned to the Inn for Dinner; – but was sorry to find no Horses had yet come in, tho' it was now between 3 and 4,O'Clock. Miss Campbell having engaged herself to dine out, the two Boys and I dined by ourselves at the Inn at 5,O'Clock.

At 6,O'Clock Miss Campbell joined at the Inn, and no Horses having yet come in, we all walked out for an hour, through the Town and on Glasgow–Green along the River Clyde.

We returned to the Inn to Tea between 7 and 8,O'Clock – but no Horses yet arrived.

In this state of uncertainty we remained till 9,O'Clock, when it was announced to us that a Pair of Horses had just then come in, at the moment we were ordering Beds for the Night, – but on holding a consultation with Miss Campbell, it was agreed we should set out immediately on our Journey, so as to be able to call at Stirling and get into Edinburgh the next day. — We accordingly set out from Glasgow at half past 9,O'Clock, in a rainy dark night, and arrived at the Village of Cumbernauld 14 miles from Glasgow at half past 11,O'Clock. — We got into a good Inn here, had Supper immediately – and then went to Bed. —

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Source
MACQUARIE, Lachlan Journal No. 6 [15 July 1804 – 16 March 1807]
Original held in Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A770 pp. 36–107 [CY Reel 300 Frames #260–295].

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