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1788

June

June 10.
As we approach towards the "Cape of Good Hope" the weather becomes sensibly colder every day for some time past; — the Sun is now in the Northern Hemisphere, and this is consequently the winter Season in the Latitudes we are now in — we find the cold encrease [sic] every day as we get nearer the Land.

See a vast number of very curious Sea Fowles in these Latitudes – especially the Bird call'd Albicross [sic] with immense long wings, of which we see vast numbers. — We catched [sic] a number of very large sharks in these Latitudes.

June 12.
We made Land in the afternoon of this Day at a great Distance at Sea the weather being very clear – and the Land we saw very High – being a Part of the Cape of Good Hope in Africa called – steered our course in for the Land, and at night entered into False Bay on the North East side of the Cape of Good Hope, at the mouth of which we droped [sic] Anchor. — False Bay is formed by the Cape of Good Hope on the West and Cape Lagullas on the East – it is a very deep large Capacious Bay.

June 13.
Friday. Weighed Anchor early this morning and Proceeded farther up the Bay with a fine fair Breeze; about Nine OClock came to an Anchor in Simon's Bay a small cove or Creek on the west side of False Bay – a very Romantick [sic] and beautiful situation at the foot of a very High Mountain: — the Dutch have a small Factory and a Number of Naval Store Houses here for the conveniency [sic] of their Fleet and Shipping at this season of the year, when it is dangerous for ships to go into Table Bay on the other side of the Cape, where the chief Dutch Settlement and Seat of Government is call'd Cape Town. — Simon's Bay is a very snug secure Harbour for ships to ride at anchor in at this season especially; — we found a number of Dutch East Indiamen outward and homeward bound lying here; also some French Ships and one English Man of War, vizt. His Majesty's Sloop "The Bounty" commanded by Lieut. Bligh (who sailed as Master with Capt. Cook) bound for Ottaheitta in the South Sea in search of discoveries, but particularly sent to carry and Transplant the Bread Fruit from Ottaheitta to the West India Islands. — We saluted these ships and a small Fort on shore upon coming to anchor which they returned — an officer was sent on board by the Resident at Simon's Bay officially to enquire what we were our business and reasons for putting in here. —

In the Evening Capt. Smith and Colonel Balfour went on shore to wait upon the Resident Mr. Brant.

June 14.
Saturday. As we found that Capt. Smith would necessarily be detained for a few days at Simon's Bay to land some Goods and lay in some Fresh Provisions and Water for the Troops and ships company; a number of us resolved to pay a visit to Cape Town, and see a little of the Country about the Cape. — Capt. Smith, Col. Balfour. Mr. Dickie, Dr. Lewis, Lieut. Wood, Docr. Anderson and myself, having Breakfasted on board, went on shore early in the morning, and having through the assistance of Mr. Brant &c. procured Horses we set out for Cape Town about Ten OClock. We had a most delightful Romantick [sic] Ride round the Bay; the Road to the Head of the Bay is close to the water, running along the Foot of very high mountains all the way; – Passed close by (within about a Gun shot of the Road) the Village of Constantia where there is a very fine vineyard famous for the Produce of the wine called Constantia. — The Road as far as Constantia is very rough and stoney, but from thence all the way to Cape Town is very good and Level. When we arrived at the Head of False Bay, we halted at a small Inn (situated on the Isthmus between the two Bays) to take a Refreshment; — Here, for the first time I drank Constantia – an excellent fine flavoured wine – having taken a very good Refreshment we pursued our Journey – as ride along this neck of Land or Isthmus (which is perfectly Level) have a very fine Picturesque view of the distant Hills on either Hand — on some of those on our Right far inland we see and clearly discern Snow; several mountains being covered with it – notwithstanding we feel the Sun very Hot and powerful – full as much so as it is at home in the middle of Summer, but, here it is now their coldest Season; as we approach the Town we have a full view of it and the Fortifications round it – the Town with the Bay and surrounding Hills form a very agreeable and beautiful Prospect. — Arrived at Cape Town about Four OClock in the afternoon, and are conducted by our Guides to Lodging Houses, there being no Inns in the place; – Capt. Smith Mr. Dickie and Col. Balfour take up their Quarters at a Mr. Van Carman's a very Rich opulent Merchant; - Messrs. Wood, Lewis, Anderson and Myself took up our Quarters at the House of our Guide a Mr. Keiver – we found this man's House, accommodations and Entertainment fall very far short indeed of the mighty fine Promises and Elegant Description he was pleased to give us of them on the Road from False Bay; all that he could now give us after our Ride was some Coffee, but promised to let us have a very good Supper – after our Coffee we went to walk through the Town and to call upon our Fellow Travellers whom we found Seated at a very comfortable Dinner and very much pleased with their Situation; — I accompanied Colonel Balfour at night to wait on Colonel Gordon Commandant of the Garrison and Commanding Officer of all the Dutch Troops at the Cape; we call'd at his Quarters in the Citadel but were informed that he was gone a Hunting to the Country a few miles off – left our Names and waited afterwards upon the next Officer in command in the Garrison vizt. Colonel ....... [name omitted] Commanding the Regiment de Wirtemberg now stationed here and hired by the Dutch from the Duke of Wirtemberg; this Gentleman received us very civilly and told us the proper time to call upon the Governor Mr. Van de Graff next day. — Upon returning home to my Lodgings I found my Companions assembled ready for Supper which was soon afterwards produced – our Host and Hostess honouring us with their Company - our fare was not very extraordinary, however, being hungry we eat heartily and drank some Cape Wine – commonly called "Cape Madeira" – we went early to Bed; but all of us were so much infested with Bugs that we slept very little;

[June 15]
— and upon comparing Notes in the morning were heartily sorry that we took up our Quarters at Mr. Keiver's, but did not think worth while to look out for new ones for any time we were to stay. — After Breakfast we went out to walk and take a more particular view of the Town and the Fortification &c — I called first upon Col. Balfour and accompanied him and Capt. Smith to wait upon Governor Van de Graff – were informed that he was gone to Church (being Sunday) and left our Names. — The Governor's House is a very fine one, surrounded by very excellent walks and Planting; – we went afterwards to walk in and see the Company's Gardens which are very fine indeed and well worth seeing; – Saw all the wild Beasts and Birds which are kept in a Part of the Gardens; there are a great collection of Birds and wild Beasts – the names of which are too numerous to mention; – these, in particular, that struck me most and that I had never seen before in any other Country, were the wild African Buffaloe; the Antelope; the Zebra, or Queen's Ass; the Casawara (a very strange Bird); and an Ostrich of an immense size; this Bird cannot fly, but runs very swift when hunted. — after seeing the wild Beasts &c we walked through the Different Parts of the Town and viewed the Harbour and Fortifications – we were not allowed to go very near the works, strangers not being allowed that Privilege; but we saw as much of them as we wished notwithstanding; – the Fortifications towards the Sea are very strong and sufficient; those on the Land side are not so much so, being only Lines with a chain of Redoubts and Batteries; the Citadel which is at the entrance of the Town towards False Bay is remarkably strong and well Fortified; – there is a very good Parade and a Square of excellent Barracks near the Citadel, which along with the Barracks in the Citadel contains about Two Thousand Men; which at present, is the Strength of the Garrison and indeed all the Troops the Dutch have at the Cape – these Troops consist of a small Corps of Artillery, the Regt. of Gordon and the Regt. de Wirtemberg. — The Town of Table Bay, or as it is most commonly stiled [sic], Cape Town, is a very neat regular built Town; the Streets are not Paved, but are straight and cross each other at Right Angles; — The Houses are built of Brick in general and some of Wood, they are neat light and airy; — The Town itself is most beautifully and Romantically [sic] situated – at the Bottom of a very fine Bay and at the foot of very high Hills which overlook it and all the Plains below; the view and Prospect from these Hills towards the Sea as well as towards the inland Country is very fine and extensive, especially, from that Hill called the "Lion's Rump". — After seeing every thing about the Town that was worth viewing or looking at, we went home to our Lodgings; — we found on going home to Col. Balfour's quarters an Invitation Card from Governor Van de Graff, for the Colonel and myself to dine with him on the following Wednesday; but as we had resolved to return on board ship the next day, we declined staying for the Governors Dinner and sent our apology accordingly. — dined at Mr. Keiver's with Messrs. Wood and Anderson; and in the afternoon went to pay a visit to our Friends at Mr. Van Carman's – on the way thither met with Lt. Erskine and Ensign Tait just arrived in Town from False Bay; they accompanied us to Van Carman's where they got Quarters. — In the Evening we all went out to walk in the Company's Gardens, where we saw all the Fine and most Fashionable People of Cape Town enjoying their Evenings walk after coming out of church, this being Sunday; the Dutch Ladies were very finely and richly Dressed up; some of them I thought very pretty women; – we went to one of the Beer Gardens to see the Dutch Men smoak [sic] and Play at Bowls; – from thence we went to see the African Negroes and Caffres Dance and Sing; here we were shown some of the People called "Hottentots" the original Inhabitants of the Cape of Good Hope and all this District of Africa; – they were once a very wild, fierce, savage, Race of Men, but are now become very tame, quiet and inoffensive: – they are a strong Good looking Race of Men. — Our Evenings walk and amusement concluded with this last scene; we all supped together at Van Carman's, and afterwards retired to our Different Quarters. — I omitted to mention that Capt. Smith, Mr. Dickie and Docr. Lewis left us this Day in order to go to Mr. Van Carman's Country Seat to transact some business with him. —

June 16.
Monday. Got up early this morning and having Dressed and Breakfasted I paid off my Bill for Board and Loding [sic] to Mr. Keiver at the rate of One Spanish Dollar per Day; I afterwards went to call upon Col. Balfour and accompanied to the governors to get our Pass and take leave - we found him at home and had a long conversation with him he received us kindly, and very civilly regretted our not staying an other Day at Cape Town; — He appears to be a very good worthy Man; we took our leave of him and prepared to set out for False Bay. — About Midday our Horses being ready Lt. Col. Balfour, Docr. Anderson and myself set out on our Journey; — Messrs. Erskine, Tait & Wood remained behind for an other Day to see more of the Place. — Our Ride this day was not quite so pleasant as the last, the Day being very hot, besides our being very badly mounted. — We sloped [sic] for about an Hour, at what is called the Half-way-House, twixt Cape Town and Simon's Bay, where there is a small Post with a Serjeants Guard to defend the Pass – the Serjeant procured us some Salt Beef Bread and Onions on which and some bad Cape wine, we made a hearty Dinner; we got our Horses also Baited. [?]

I must observe here that the Distance between Cape Town and Simon's Bay where the Dublin lay at Anchor is about Twenty English Miles; — I must also remark, that, the Cape of Good Hope (which gives name to all this Dutch Settlement as well as to the whole of this Peninsular;) is usually stiled [sic] The Cape: the southernmost Point of it (and which is the south extremity of all Africa) is a very high rugged Promontory lying in 34°-30' South Latitude – a Ridge of Hills was from this Promontory all the way to the Head of False Bay and Cape Town, which stands immediately at the Head of Table Bay on the north west side of the Cape, False Bay standing on the South East side of it; — the Isthmus, or Nick of Land, which joins the Peninsular of the Cape of Good Hope, to the Continent of Africa, and which runs from Table Bay to False Bay, is perfectly level, and is about Three Miles across from the Head of the one Bay to the other. The Cape of Good Hope is about Half way between Europe and the East Indies, and is consequently the General Rendezvous of Ships of every Nation who trade to India – having made this long digression I must return to my travelling companions now, who along with myself having finished our Refreshment and satisfied our Host in the Pecuniary way, Pursued our Journey to Simon's Bay where we arrived about Six OClock in the Evening – we Paid our Horse Hire and went on board the Dublin immediately. — Capt. Smith and his companions had got on board before us – we found every Body well and every thing in the same order we left them. — Were informed at Supper, that the Ladies and the rest of our Fellow Passengers amused themselves in our absence with walking on shore &c every morning – some of the Gentlemen had taken Lodgings on shore.

June 17.
Continued on board Ship — Tait, Erskine and Wood arrive from Cape Town. —

June 18.
Colonel Gordon, Commandant of the Dutch Troops at the Cape came on board the Dublin to Pay all a visit; He, Lt. Bligh, Mr. Van Carman, and Mr. Mason (a Famous Botanist sent out by His Majestys to collect strange Plants &c in Africa) dined with us and staid on board till very late at night – we had a very merry Day of it and a great deal of dancing with the Ladies in the Evening to fine Moon light on the quarter Deck. — Colonel Gordon is a very fine jovial Fellow, and a most agreeable Companion as can be; He has resided long in this Country, and has very much studied the manners and customs of most of the Savage Nations of Africa – especially of all these lying within the Distance of One Thousand Miles from the Cape; He has frequently travelled this distance into the interior Parts of the country, and his Descriptions of the Savage and Wild Inhabitants of the different Nations he has visited are very entertaining – He sang a number of their Songs to us in their own real manner and Language; — this Gentleman has so great a facility at learning Languages, that, to my great astonishment he entertained us with a Galic [sic] Song although not born in the highlands or even Scotland, being born in Holland but of Scotch Extraction; He is very communicative and extremely well informed – in short, as agreeable and facetious a Companion as I ever met with: – in figure – Colonel Gordon is a tall stout soldierlike Man; He spent the greatest Part of two Days with us, and we were not a little sorry when he went away from Simon's Bay.

June 19
Had a very pleasant walk on shore with the Ladies. — We are now only waiting for a Fair wind to Pursue our voyage. — walk on shore every Day and spend our Time while we stay here, very agreeably.

June 22.
I wrote a long letter of this date to my Uncle Lochbuy, and Put it on board of a French Ship bound for Port Lorient in France.

June 23.
Monday. About Three OClock in the afternoon the Wind became fair and we weighed Anchor and Set Sail on our Voyage. — Several Dutch East Indiamen sailed out of the Bay at the same time. — We got a tolerable good offing by Sun set.

June 24.
The wind not so favourable - are obliged to run up to very High South Latitude to hunt for a better wind, where we meet with very bad weather. — The weather for some days off the Cape continued very Boisterous; obliged to have Dead Lights.

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Source
Macquarie, Lachlan. Journal No. 1: 15 December 1787 - 24 March 1792.
Original held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A768 pp.85-107. [Microfilm Reel CY299 Frames #48-59].

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