December

Sunday 1st. Decr. 1811.
Went to Church and had an excellent Sermon from the Revd. Mr. Knopwood at the Government House. — I issued General Orders this day respecting the dividing of Hobart Town into one Principal Square and Seven Streets, to which I have given names, and have framed a regular Plan of the Town which is to be in future rigidly adhered to in carrying on and constructing the Buildings in it. —

At 5. P.M. I walked out with Mrs. M. to see Lieut. Campbell's and Mr. Fosbrook's Farms in the vicinity of Hobart Town, —and returned home to Dinner at ½ past 6. P.M.; our usual Party including Mr. Knopwood, dining with us.

At 7. P.M. the Lady Nelson sailed for Port Dalrymple with a fair wind, in Company with the Brig Favorite Capt. Fisk, bound for Port Jackson. —

Monday 2d. Decr. 1811.
I intended setting out early this morning for Port Dalrymple – but the Weather proved so boisterous and rainy in the morning that I postponed my departure in hopes of its proving more moderate in the afternoon.

I pointed out to the Inspector of Works this morning where the new Military Barracks & Hospital are to be built on Barrack Hill, a little South East of the Town. — Also where the new Genl. Hospital and County Jail are to be built – on an eminence to the Westward of the Town and near the West Bank of the River. — I had the names of the Great Square & Principal Streets Painted on Boards and this morning erected on Posts at the Angles of the Square & Streets to define & mark out their respective limits and direction; naming them as follows: vizt. George's Square – 1 Macquarie (Main) Street – Liverpool Street – Argyle Street – Elizabeth Street, Murray Street, Harrington Street – and Collins Street; being 3 long and 4 Cross Streets as per Plan of the Town. — In the 3 Angles of the Square, the new Church, Court House, and Main Guard are intended to be built. —

The Weather having cleared up today between 3 and 4,O'Clock, I resolved on commencing my Journey to Port Dalrymple, having now finished all my business & Inspections at the Derwent.—

At 4. P.M. we all set out from Hobart Town in Capt. Murray's Barge to proceed up the River to Stanfield's Farm on the N. East side of the River, and from whence we are to commence our overland Journey; our Servants, Horses & Baggage having gone on there before us. —On going to the Place of Embarkation, the Gentlemen & Principal Inhabitants of Hobart Town met us and attended us to our Boat and gave us 3 cheers on going on board.

The Military were drawn out to receive me in passing through Macquarie Street, and a salute of 19 Guns was fired from the Battery; the Military & Inhabitants cheering us again as the Boat put off from the Wharf. — Capt. Murray accompanied us as far as New Town, we landed him after taking his leave of us. — Lieut. Gunning accompanied us to Stanfield's Farm – and Lieut. D. Campbell is to make one of our Party all the way to Port Dalrymple. — At 6. P.M. arrive at Stanfield's Farm, where we take up our Quarters for this Night, disce. 12 miles. —

Tuesday 3d. Decr.—
The last part of our Baggage having been sent off at 4. a.m. we set out ourselves (Mrs. M. myself and Capt. Antill on Horse back, and Lieut. Maclaine & Campbell & Mr. Meehan on foot) from Stanfield's Farm at Half past 8,O'Clock in the morning, after taking leave of our friend and Conductor, Lieut. Gunning, previously Breakfasting at Stanfield's. —

Crossed a small Rivulet, that falls into Herdsman's Cove within about a mile of Stanfield's House, travelled over Bagdad Plains – and along Bagdad River to the foot of Constitution Hill – 12 miles from Stanfield's; ascended the Hill – about 1 mile to the other side in ascending and descending into Glen-forsa (now named so by me), which continues for 3 miles to the Green Ponds. — From thence travelled through a broad, fertile, and beautiful Valley, skirted by very fine Hills & Eminences for 5 miles; which I have named Elizabeth Valley (in honour of Mrs. M.); halted at the extremity of this Valley, and at the entrance of Serpentine Valley, close to a Pond of good fresh water, with a rich extensive meadow in our front. — Here we arrived at ½ past 6. P.M.and took up our Ground for the Night, disce. 21 miles from Stanfield's House. — I have named this Ground "Govr. Macquarie's Resting Place". — We have travelled through a very fine, fertile, and beautifully Picturesque Country all this day and were much gratified.

Wednesday 4th. Decr. 1811.
At ½ past 5. a.m. – We decamped from Govr. Macquarie's Resting Place; – and travelling through Serpentine Valley for 4½ miles to the foot of Spring Hill, ascended ½ a mile to the Summit of it, and rested there for an hour & a half till all the baggage had passed. — In the meanwhile Mrs. M. Capt. Antill, Mr. Meehan, & myself went up to the top of a very high Hill in the neighbourhood of Spring Hill, from whence we had a very fine extensive view of Table Mountain (over Hobart Town), Mount Dromedary, Western Table Mountain, and Ben-Lomond; and saw several distant Hills covered with Snow. —

I have named this High Hill or mountain on account of the fine view it commands, Prospect Hill. — After descending from this Hill, we pursued our Journey to Jerico Plains, where we halted at ½ past 10. a.m. close to the River Jordan, a small stream running through an extensive meadow; this being 8 miles distant from our last Ground; we Breakfasted here and rested till 3 OClock in the afternoon. — At ½ past 3. P.M. moved on again. — We travelled over a succession of very fine Hills and fertile Vallies for 10 miles to a Jungle with fine Springs of fresh Water in, arriving there at 8. P.M. and here we Encamped for the Night; the distance from the Ground we left in the morning being 18 miles. — I have named this Ground "Macquarie Springs" – or Governor's 2d. Resting Place. —

Thursday 5th. Decr.
At 4. a.m. Capt. A. set out in front with part of our Baggage, and at 6 we followed him ourselves with the remainder. — Travelled through Meehan Valley (named so by me) for 2 miles, to very fine beautiful extensive Plains, about 4 miles extent, and which I have now named "York-Plains" in honor of H.R.H. The Duke of York. — These Plains are skirted by very fine well-wooded Hills; three of them being of Conical or Sugar Loaf shapes. The name these Plains have hitherto been called by is Scantling Plains, from an out-law runaway Convict of that name having been killed there. — At 10. a.m. arrive at "Antill's Ponds" (so named by me) at the entrance of Salt Pan Plains; distance from last ground 12 miles. —

At ½ past 3. P.M. Pursued our Journey over Salt Pans Plains, which are about Ten miles in extent – hardly a tree on them, and a very poor barren Soil. — Passed several of the Salt Pans; one of which, about 7 miles from Antill's Ponds, is a very large one, and now almost half covered over with fine Salt, which I examined and tasted. — About half a mile farther on, and to the right of our Track, is a very beautiful and singular round Hill, with the top perfectly flat – hitherto called Donn's Battery – but which I have now named "Mount Henrietta" – in honor of Mrs. M. — I rode up to the top of it and from the summit had a fine view of the Plains and adjoining Hills and Mountains, including the one called Grimes's Sugar Loaf. — I saw many Native Fires in the faces of the neighbouring Mountains – but saw none of themselves. —

Having left Salt Pans [sic] Plains, and passed Grimes's Lagoon, a very fine one a quarter of a mile long, on our left, we entered Argyle Plains (so named now by me, being formerly called Cock-Pitt-Plains) and Encamped on the Banks of "Macquarie River" (so named now) which flows out of Grimes's Lagoon and runs by many windings all the way to Port Dalrymple. — Here we arrived at 7. P.M. and halted for the Night; disce. 21 miles from Macquarie Springs.

Friday 6th. Decr. 1811.
At 6. a.m. Set out from Macquarie River – travel for 3 miles through Argyle Plains – which contains good Pasturage; thence through Hills & Vallies for 3 miles more – poor Soil – to "Mount Campbell" (named after D. Campbell by me – and formerly called Mount Augustus) leaving it on our left; then enter "Maclaine Plains" and travel through them for 2 miles to a rising Ground covered with wood, which separate them from the next Plains. Thence travel two miles over "Antill Plains" (so named by me after Capt. Antill), which are beautifully interspersed with Trees and contain good Pasturage for Cattle. — At 10. a.m. halted on the Left Bank of Elizabeth River (so named now by me in honor of Mrs. M. being formerly called the Relief Creek) in Antill Plains; disce. from last Ground being 10 miles.

Here we found, just arrived about an hour before us, a Party of Gentlemen from Port Dalrymple, consisting [of ] Capt. Kenny, Lieut. Lyttleton, and Dr. Mountgarret; together with Ten fresh Draught Bullocks, and some Refreshments sent by Major Gordon for us.

We Breakfasted – and rested here during the Heat of the Day. At ½ past 3. P.M. Pursued our Journey from Elizabeth River, which we forded close to where we Encamped, and travelled for 7 miles across "Macquarie Plains" (– now so named & commencing from Elizabeth River, and which is 40 miles from the settlement at Port Dalrymple); these Plains are very extensive and beautifully interspersed with Trees and small Eminences and skirted by fine ranges of Hills, well calculated for grazing of Horned Cattle & Sheep, the Plains also being in most Places a good Soil for Tillage & Pasturage. — Six miles from Elizabeth River, leave on our left a large Lagoon of fresh Water, near which are some rising Grounds.

At 6. P.M. Halted at the northern Extremity of Macquarie Plains, at the edge of Epping Forest (now so named by me) disce. 17 miles from Macquarie River. — The Party from Port Dalrymple having joined our own, dined with us on this Ground. —

Saturday 7th. Decr. 1811.
At ¼ past 4. a.m. Capt. Antill set out with the first part of the Baggage; and at 20 minutes before 6. a.m. we followed; – travelling for Ten miles through Epping Forest, which is all very poor bad soil, to the open Plains; which I have named Henrietta Plains; travelled for about two miles across these Plains to our Tent, which we reached at 10. a.m.; finding Breakfast ready prepared for us. — These Plains are by far the richest and most beautiful we have yet seen in Van Diemen's Land; forming a grand, and interesting fine Landscape, and having a fine noble view of Ben-Lomond, the Butt, and a long lofty Range of smaller Mountains on the East and West of our Track, extending all the way to Port Dalrymple; the New River, or South Esk, meandering in a beautiful manner through the Plains, making the Landscape complete. — The Soil and Herbage of Henrietta Plains far excel anything of the kind we have yet seen.—

The Port Dalrymple Party Breakfasted with us here; and the Men & Cattle being sufficiently refreshed, Capt. A. with the first part of the Baggage set out from Henrietta Plains at ¼ past 1. P.M. —

At 3. P.M. We followed and pursued our Journey for three miles through Henrietta Plains to their northern termination in an open wood; travelled for 2½ miles through this wood (which is generally good Soil with tolerable Pasturage) to the Ford on the South Esk, where this River was pretty deep; and up to the Axle-Trees of our Carts; thence travelled for 2½ miles through "Gordon Plains" ( – now so named by me – being formerly called the Long Plain) to Honey-Suckle-Bank, which terminates a fine Reach of the South Esk River, and on which Bank we halted and Encamped for the Night; disce. from Macquarie Plains 20 miles.

Sunday 8th. Decr. 1811.
At 5. a.m. Capt. Antill set out from Honey Suckle Bank with the first part of the Baggage, and at 7. a.m. we followed with the remainder; our Port Dalrymple Friends still remaining with us. — Travelled the first 3 miles over beautiful Verdant Hills and Vallies alternately; thence three miles through rich winding Vallies to the Sugar Loaf Hill, situated in the middle of Camden Valley, and close to which is the Government Stock-Yard.

We found our Tent Pitched on a fine Bank at the foot of the Sugar Loaf Hill, where we arrived at 9 OClock, and Breakfasted immediately afterwards.

At 12,O'Clock, Major Gordon joined us at the Sugar Loaf. — We all then proceeded to the Government Stock-Yard, where I inspected the Government Cattle, consisting of 613 Head of Horned Cattle, and 624 Sheep; finding the former in most excellent condition, but the latter not in such good order. — From the Stock-Yard we proceed to the Top of the Sugar Loaf on Horseback, from whence we had a very fine view of the Valley below and the adjoining Hills & distant mountains. — Descending the Sugar Loaf Hill we pursued our Journey for 2½ miles through Camden Valley to the Corri-Linn Cascade (so named now by me in honor of the Patriot Chief of Scotland, Wm. Wallace) about ½ a mile east of Paterson's Island, on the North Esk River. — We enjoyed this wild romantic view very much, which we had gone a little out of our way to see, but were amply compensated for our trouble. — From the Corri-Linn, we pursued our Journey through Lt. Rose's Farm, and along the other Farms in Paterson's Vale for about two miles; thence along fine verdant Hills and open wooded Country for 4½ miles to the Town or rather Village of Launceston, situated at the Confluence of the North & South Esk Rivers, which together form here the Great River Tamer,[sic] or Port Dalrymple. — On reaching Launceston, I was received with Military Honors by the Commandant, Major Gordon (who had left us about an hour before and gone on to Town for this purpose); the Troops being drawn out and forming a Lane at the Government House, and the New Colours on a new Flag Staff erected on the Summit of the Hill immediately above Government House, having been hoisted at the very moment I appeared coming round the Hill in sight of the Town, a Salute of 19 Guns Commencing from the Artillery at the same instant, with 3 Vollies from the Troops, drawn up in front of Government House, on Mrs. Macquarie and myself entering it; whilst the Government small Cutter was Saluting on the River North Esk, running immediately in front of the House and at the bottom of the Garden. — The Major's highly officer-like Conduct in this Ceremonial is highly creditable to him. — The grand view, and noble Picturesque Landscape, that presented themselves on our first coming in sight of Launceston and the three Rivers, and fertile Plains and Lofty Mountains by which they are bounded, were highly gratifying and truly sublime; and equal in point of beauty to anything I have ever seen in any Country. — We arrived at Launceston at 5. P.M. and found neat, clean, excellent accommodation ready prepared for us by Major Gordon at the Government [House]; where he gave us a most sumptuous good Dinner at 6,O'Clock; the principal Civil & Military officers dining with us. — In the Evening the Houses in Town were illuminated, and several Bone-Fires [sic] by the Inhabitants and the Soldiers were made in honor of our arrival –; the People frequently cheering and huzzaing [sic] during the Evening.

This day's Journey from Honey Suckle-Bank to Launceston was only 15 miles!

Monday 9th. Decr. 1811.
I staid [sic] at Home all this day to write my orders and receive Visits. —This Day Major Gordon & the officers of the Detachment dined with us, as we now commence to keep our own Table during our stay here.

The Lady Nelson has not yet made her appearance, which must be owing to her having met with contrary winds. —

Tuesday 10th. Decr. 1811.
At 11. a.m. I inspected the Detachment of the 73d. Regt. stationed at Launceston and found them in good order. —I afterwards proceeded to inspect the Men's Barracks and Hospital –; the former I did not find so clean as they ought to be, and the latter fortunately is empty, there being no sick either Military or Civil to occupy. —I then visited the Public Stores, and Military & Civil Officers Barracks. — The latter were clean & neatly kept, but the former in many respects, require improvement and better arrangement.—

I issued some Genl. Orders respecting the Inspection of the Troops, and directed Half a Pint of Spirits to be issued to each Soldier to drink the King's Health.

The Officers Civil & Military dined with us today.

Wednesday 11th. Decr.
At 5. A.M. I set out with Major Gordon &c. &c. to visit & inspect the several Farms on both Banks of the North Esk River as high up on the west side as Lt. Rose's Farm, and as far down on the East side as Dr. Mountgarrat's Farm; the Soil & Grazing of all of them good, with fine promising Crops; but the Habitations of the Settlers are wretchedly mean & themselves dirty and badly clothed.

I named a pretty little Island in the North Esk, in Paterson's Vale, "Charles Island" in honor of my Brother. We returned home to Breakfast at ½ past 10. a.m.

At 5,O'Clock this Evening Mrs. M. and myself, on Horseback, accompanied by Major Gordon and Lieuts. Rose, D. Campbell, & Lyttleton, made a Party to go to see the Bason and surrounding Grand Scenery on the South Esk River about two miles from Town, and one mile above the Cataract. — On our arrival at the Bason, we were very highly gratified and pleased with it and the grand Picturesque Scenery of the Surrounding Hills and high Rocks which tower above it, and confines within a narrow chasm the channel or Bed of the River, foaming through this narrow Gap in a most beautiful manner. —

After our return from viewing the Bason, we embarked on board Major Gordon's Cutter on the South Esk, and proceeded up that River for about a mile to view the Cataract or Fall; with which, and the high rocky Cliffs which confine the River here, we were very much pleased and delighted. — We did not get home to Dinner till near 8 O'Clock at Night.

Thursday 12th. Decr. 1811.
At ½ past 5,O'Clock this morning I set out, accompanied by Major Gordon, Lieut. Rose, Doctor Mountgarrat, and Mr. Meehan & Mr. Mills (the Surveyor & Depy. Surveyor) on a Tour of Inspection to the interior parts of the Country Situated between Launceston and the River South Esk; my principal motive in so doing being to select and fix upon an eligible and good part of the Country – not too far from this Settlement – for giving Farms to the Norfolk Island Settlers, whatever time they may happen to be removed from that Island on my receiving orders to evacuate it. — We rode over several fine verdant Hills and Vallies, fit both for Tillage and Pasturage. — A fine Tract of Country, commonly known by the name of Brumbey's Plains, but which I have now named "Breadalbane Plains", is by far the richest soil and best Pasturage we saw in this day's ride; they are well watered by a succession of fine copies [sic] Springs, containing many thousand acres of most excellent – most beautiful situation – being a succession of Plains, valleys, and gentle Eminences, only about two miles from the North Esk, and about 5 miles from Launceston. — We rode over several other good Tracts of Land, lying between Breadalbane Plains and the South Esk River, to which we penetrated – within two miles below Honey-Suckle Bank, and rode for several miles along the Right Bank of that River, till we came to very fine extensive rich Plains, hitherto without any name and which I have now christened Norfolk Plains; conceiving this fine rich Tract of Country to be a most eligible and convenient Situation for accommodating the Norfolk Island Settlers with Farms, on that Settlement being entirely withdrawn.

This fine rich Tract of Country extends for 5 or Six miles along the Bank of the River South Esk; the Eastern extremity of them commencing about half a mile below where the Macquarie River (formerly known by the name of the Lake-River) falls into the South Esk, and extending for about two miles to the foot of the Hills in the Center part of them; the Hills themselves having excellent Pasturage, and the River flowing along these fine Plains, render them highly advantageous for small Settlers, as the distance from Launceston – by which a good Cart Road might be made – does not exceed Nine miles. The Plains facing them, on the Left Bank of the South Esk, appear equally good and fit Tillage and Grazing. —

Having sufficiently explored this Part of the Country, we returned home by a different route to that we went, and arrived at Launceston at ½ past 12,O'Clock, after a long but pleasant Ride of at least Thirty Miles! —

On my return home I received accounts of the arrival of the Lady Nelson in the River, yesterday morning, and that she was lying at Anchor about 25 miles below Launceston. —I sent orders to Mr. Overand not to bring up the Lady Nelson any farther – but to remain where he is till I embark, which I intend doing on Saturday morning next. —Our Servants Thomas Arnold and his wife came up with our Baggage from the Vessel this morning to Launceston. —

Dr. & Mrs. Mountgarrat and Mr. & Mrs. Mills dined with us this day, and also the officers of the Detachment. —

Friday 13th. Decr. 1811.
I received this day an Address from the Settlers and other Free Inhabitants of Port Dalrymple, and have appointed 9,O'Clock tomorrow morning for delivering a suitable reply in writing to the Committee who presented it. — I staid at home all this day to receive Petitions and Memorials from the Settlers and other Inhabitants of Launceston, and in making preparations for my departure hence. —

Saturday 14th. Decr. 1811.
I finished all my business this forenoon at this Settlement and drew out some written Instructions for Major Gordon's guidance as Commandant, which I delivered to him at 2. P.M. this day. —

The Lady Nelson had unfortunately come up as far as Launceston on Thursday night, the orders I sent to her Commander to remain at his first anchoring Place down the River having reached him too late on that day. At 3. P.M. Sent on board the Lady Nelson our Servants and all our Baggage, and took an early Dinner with Major Gordon previous to our Embarkation. — At 9. P.M. we embarked on board the Lady Nelson lying at anchor in the River Tamer[sic] about a mile off from the Town. — Major Gordon and all the officers Civil & Military attended us to the Place of Embarkation, where we took leave of them; the Major and a few other friends having engaged to follow us tomorrow down the River to Dinner. — We got on board the Lady Nelson at half past 9. P.M; – and went early to Bed. —

Sunday 15th. Decr. 1811.
At 2. a.m. this morning weighed anchor and dropped down the River with the Tide, having a Party of the 73d. in the Launch belonging to the Town to assist in towing the Vessel down the River, on account of the Wind being directly against us. We had only dropped down about one mile below the Place we had left when, through the stupidity of the Pilot (Robinson) the Vessel got aground and stuck in the mud close to the Right Bank of the River, where we must ly [sic] till the Tide makes again before we can get off. —

At 20 minutes past 1. P.M. The Tide having made we got off at high water, and were towed down about two miles; but the wind being too strong against us, we were obliged to come to anchor again at 10 minutes past 2. P.M. — At 5. P.M. weighed again and dropped down about a mile, but were then again obliged to come to anchor. —

Our Port Dalrymple Friends came off to dine with us, and left us again late in the Evening to go to sleep on shore. — At 7. P.M. I received an Express from the Derwent with Letters for me from thence and from Sydney – the latter having been brought by the new Colonial Ship Governor Macquarie commanded by Capt. Bunker: – No news! all Friends at Sydney in good health and as we left them. — We were obliged to remain at anchor all Night.

Monday 16th. Decr. 1811.
The weather was so very foggy and dark this morning that we could not avail ourselves of the morning Tide to drop down the River, and by the time it cleared up the Tide of Ebb was nearly spent; so that we did not gain above half a mile this Tide in our Voyage.

Our Shore Friends came on board to Breakfast with, and at noon left us to proceed down the River in their own Boat to reconnoitre the Peninsula I intend to remove the Settlement to from Launceston. — I sent Mr. Meehan the Actg. Surveyor with them in order to explore and survey the Ground for the Town – and report to me thereon. I wrote some Letters to the Derwent by the man who brought the Express from thence.

At ½ past 4. P.M.weighed anchor and attempted to turn down the River with the Tide of Ebb –; but the wind being right ahead we make very slow progress. — At 7. P.M. Passed Pig-Island, which is 5 miles below Launceston, and at 8. P.M. we anchored about a mile below Pig-Island, the Tide of Ebb being then spent.

Tuesday 17th. Decr. 1811.
At 4. a.m. The Tide of Ebb having made, weighed anchor and dropped down with it, the two Boats towing the Vessel at the same time – but the Wind still being against us, made very slow progress down the River. — At 9. a.m. the Tide turned and forced us to come to anchor at the Crescent Shore – having made only between 7 and Eight miles this Tide. — Fired a Gun for the Cutter to be sent us from One Tree Point, distant about 7 miles from us; the Port Dalrymple Party being there, and this being the Signal established between us for their sending back the Cutter when required; Mrs. M. Capt. A. and Lt. M. and myself intending to proceed in it to One Tree Point. — The River Tamer, [sic] properly speaking, ends at the Crescent Shore, to which part the Fresh water only extends, and the Salt water begins at low Tide; and consequently the lower part of this large River ought to be called Port Dalrymple. — The Cutter not having been sent, owing, as we suppose, to our Signal Gun not having been heard, we set out at 11. a.m. in the Whale Boat, rowed by five men, from the Ship for One Tree Point. — At Swan Point near Egg-Island, met the Government Launch coming back from the Party with Letters from Major Gordon and the Surveyor, both reporting that after attentively exploring the Peninsula of One Tree Point it appears an unfit situation for a Town from the great scarcity of Fresh Water – no adequate supply being found in any part of the Peninsula – altho' in all other respects a very fit situation for a Town and Port for shipping. — Sent the Launch back to Launceston – and proceeded on ourselves to One Tree Point – distant about 9 miles from where we left the Lady Nelson. — Here we arrived at ½ past 2. P.M. and joined the Port Dalrymple Party, who accompanied us two miles further down the River to a little Cove on the opposite (or Left Bank) of it, where we all landed and dined together. — I sent the Surveyor again to Survey more minutely the opposite Peninsula of One Tree Point and to endeavour to find Water near Eastern Arm (the Place deemed most eligible for a Port for shipping); but after a fruitless search, he returned in the Evening and confirmed his former report – of no water to be found in sufficient quantities for a Settlement. I have consequently relinquished entirely every intention of removing the Settlement to this Peninsula, and must now direct my thoughts to Outer Cove as the next eligible Situation. —

Having remained with our Port Dalrymple Friends till half past 7. P.M. we took leave of them to return to the Lady Nelson, promising to meet them at Breakfast next morning at York-Town, about 12 miles farther down the River, situated in Western-Arm. — We met the Lady Nelson about a mile above One Tree Point, and got safe on board of her at 8. P.M. a few minutes before she came to anchor in a small Bay or Bend of the River formed by that Point. —

Wednesday 18th. Decr. 1811.
At 4. a.m. The Lady Nelson weighed anchor and dropped down the River with the Tide and the assistance of the Boats towing her; the Wind still continuing to blow directly up the River and against us. —

At ½ past 8. a.m. we anchored near Middle Island, the Tide of Ebb being spent; distance from last anchorage being about 9 miles. —

At 9. a.m. Mrs. M. & myself, accompanied by Capt. Antill and Lieut. Maclaine, with materials for our Breakfast, set out from the Lady Nelson in the Whale Boat for York-Town, which we reached at 11. a.m.; the distance being about Six miles, three of which is up Western Arm, at the head thereof York-Town is Situated on the Right Bank of a very pretty little Stream of Running Fresh Water; a few Houses remain still standing in this miserable barren spot but no Inhabitants but the Guard, and the Gardner [sic] left to take care of the Government Garden. — It appears extraordinary that any man of common Judgment or understanding should have formed the Chief Settlement here, as there is nothing to recommend it for such a purpose excepting this little Stream of Fresh Water; it being impossible for large Vessels to enter Western Arm at any time of Tide, and even small Boats not being able to come up to the Town at Low Water. —

On our arrival at York-Town our Port Dalrymple Friends met us at the Landing Place at a Point a mile from the Town, from whence we walked to the Government House; where we Breakfasted and afterwards walked in the Garden, which is very tastefully laid out on the Bank of the Rivulet. — Having sufficiently surveyed this deserted dessolate [sic] Village, we took our departure from it at ½ past 1. P.M. attended by the Port Dalrymple Gentlemen in their own Boat, and bent our course for Outer Cove; where we arrived and landed on a very pretty Bank on the West Side, at 3,O'Clock in the afternoon, and had our Tent immediately Pitched on a fine level spot, open to the Cove and near the River that falls into the Head of it; distance from York Town being about Five miles. —

This being the Ground intended for removing the Chief Settlement of Port Dalrymple to, in case it should appear on examination to be an eligible situation for it; I proceeded immediately on landing to explore it, attended by Mr. Meehan the Surveyor, Major Gordon, Doctor Mountgarrat, &c. &c. We first examined the River as far as the Tide flows up it, which it does for about 300 yards, where the water becomes fresh, issuing from a variety of Springs along both Banks of the Rivulet. —We discovered and tasted two Copious Springs on the Right Bank of it, containing most excellent water and in considerable abundance; and on the Left Bank also there appeared many small Springs which only require opening and clearing to afford a good supply of fresh water. —From the River we explored the Grounds to the Northward & Westward for about a mile in each direction, and found the Soil very good for both Pasture and Garden Ground and likewise fit for Building on, being perfectly dry and firm in all parts. — There is also from the appearance of the Ground, and the great number of Tea Trees growing on it, every reason to believe that plenty of Water is to be procured here for the use of Man and Beast by sinking Wells a sufficient depth. — On a review of all these circumstances, the contiguity of Outer-Cove to the Sea, and the safety of its Harbour for Shipping, I have come to the resolution of removing the Chief Settlement of Port Dalrymple hither as soon as such an important measure can conveniently be carried into effect. — In pursuance of this Plan, I have resolved to erect a new Town here according to a well digested regular Plan, and to name it "George-Town" in honor of our beloved Sovereign; and to name this Cove (which has hitherto been called Outer Cove) York-Cove – and the Rivulet York-River – in honor of His Royal Highness The Duke of York. — The Town to extend to both sides of the Cove, but the larger Portion of it to be on the West Side of the River, on account of the Ground there being so much superior to that on the East Side. — I gave orders to the Surveyor to make a Compleat Survey of the Ground for a mile on each side of York-Cove, explore it minutely, and endeavour to discover whether there be any freshwater Lagoons or more Springs within that distance; reporting to me early tomorrow the result of his researches. — At 6. P.M. we returned from our excursion – and in half an hour afterwards the Lady Nelson arrived and anchored in York-Cove. — At 7. P.M. Our Dinner having been Cooked on board, and brought on shore, we dined very comfortably in our Tent, and drank prosperity to George Town, shortly intended to be erected here. — The Evening being very fine Mrs. Macquarie and myself Slept on Shore in our Tent, which was Pitched on the future scite [sic] of the new intended Town, and probably on that part of it in which the principal Square will be erected and formed. —

Thursday 19th. Decr. 1811.
I got up early and proceeded along with the Surveyor and Dr. Mountgarrat to explore the East Side of York Cove; Mr. Meehan having made his report to me of the result of his researches – which being favorable beyond my most sanguine expectations, I wished to see with my own Eyes the advantages of this Situation. — He accordingly pointed out to me several Springs of good fresh water along the Beach on the East Side of the Cove, and a pretty considerable Lagoon of Fresh water within a quarter of a mile of the Beach, which must contain a large Supply of Water in all Seasons of the Year. — This morning's excursion has confirmed me in the opinion that this is by far the most eligible spot in all Port Dalrymple for the establishing and erecting the Chief Settlement in.

After we had Breakfasted, I had two Boards, with George Town painted on them, nailed up to conspicuous Trees on the West and East side of the Cove, to mark out the intended Scite [sic] of the new Town; that on the West Side being nailed on a Tree close to our Tent. — I also marked out the proper place for a Government Wharf and Public Stores & Granary to be built on the west side of the Cove; and near the Point on the same side, I had a Tree marked where the Government House is to be built, with a suitable Piece of Ground to be annexed thereto as a Domain. — Whilst I was thus employed Mrs. M. and Lieut. Lyttleton were taking drawings of York-Cove, Green Island at the entrance of it, the River, and fine surrounding Scenery. — All our Labours being now over, we assembled at 3. P.M. on the Beach, where we drank success to George Town and the Harbour of York-Cove previous to our taking leave of our Friends from Launceston. —They accompanied [us] on board immediately afterwards, and there we took finally leave of them and our young relation Lieut. Duncan Campbell, who now returns to the Derwent.

At 6. P.M. weigh anchor and set sail with the Tide of Ebb and Boats towing us, from York-Cove; and at ½ past 7. P.M.anchored at Lagoon Beach, near Low-Head, two miles below York-Cove, and close in shore in good anchorage. —

Friday 20th. Decr. 1811.
At 7. a.m. weighed anchor from Lagoon Beach and set sail on our Voyage back to Sydney through Bass's Straits; but the Wind being Easterly and unfavorable we were obliged to steer a North by West Course through the Straits.

Saturday 21st. Decr. 1811.
The Wind still continues unfavorable. — At 2. P.M. Saw Curtis's Islands, and at 4. P.M. the Rodondo, and the rocks called the Twins – and at 5. P.M. saw the Breakers between the latter and Rodondo – on which we tacked and stood away from them to the Southward.

Sunday 22d. Decr.—
At 10. a.m. Passed to the Eastward of the Rodondo, and at 11. a.m. Passed between the Twins (a narrow Sound only half a mile wide), at 5 P.M. we were within 2 miles of Hogan's Group (four low Islots [sic]) when we tacked and stood to the Southward, to prevent getting embayed; being then within a few miles of the Main Land near Wilson's Promontory, which we plainly saw all this day as also the Judgement Rock. —

Monday 23d. Decr.—
The Wind still continues to blow against us from the North East – and prevents our making any progress in our Voyage through the Straits. — At Noon we were in sight of the Islands called Kent's Group – and within about 12 miles of them. —

Tuesday 24th. Decr.
It has been calm almost the whole of last night and this day. At Noon we were within 5 or 6 miles of Kent's Group, and at the same time in sight of the Main Land, Wilson's Promontory, the Rodondo, Judgment Rock, Curtis's Islands, and the Twins. It continued calm all day – and we remained stationary.

Wednesday 25th. Decr. 1811!!!
After being baffled and teased for these last five days with contrary winds and Calms, and tacking backwards and forwards in all directions between the numerous Islands and Rocks with which these Straits abound, the Wind at length shifted round to the South West at 2,O'Clock this morning, and blew a fine fresh Breeze driving us on to our destined Port at the rate of Five Knots an hour: thus we have at length a prospect of getting out of Bass's Straits in the course of 24 hours in case the Breeze lasts as it is now at Noon – when we were going Six Knots. — The Wind continued all day equally good & fair. — We sat down in consequence of this agreeable change in the weather, in very good spirits at 5,O'Clock to our Christmas Dinner in Bass's Straits; having ordered a good Dinner with some Drink for the Sailors in honor of this holy and sacred Day!

Thursday 26th. Decr.—
At 8. a.m. we were abreast of the Ram-head on the Main Land in the Entrance of the Straits, and at half past 3. P.M. we were abreast of Cape Howe, and consequently are now entirely clear of the Straits. — The Wind continues still fair. At Sunset the Wind failed us, and it came on a Calm which lasted the greater part of the Night. —

Friday 27th. Decr.—
At 8. a.m. the Wind blew strong against us at N. East and continued all Day in that quarter. — We tacked alternately from and to the Land but made no Progress, there being a strong current against us, setting to the Southward.

Saturday 28th. Decr. 1811 !!!
This day two Years I arrived at Port Jackson from England! —

At 8. a.m. the Wind blew very fresh against us at North East, with a heavy sea running and a strong Current setting us to the Southward. — At Noon we were driven to the Southward within a few miles of Cape Howe.

At ¼ past 4. P.M. the Wind shifted round very suddenly to the South West, blowing a strong Gale, with a heavy Sea, which enabled us once more to steer our Course, and to sail at the rate of 7 Knots an hour. — At 6. P.M. we were abreast of Twofold Bay. —

Sunday 29th. Decr.—
The Wind still continues fair and to blow a fresh gale with a very high Sea. — Hazy weather with some Rain, and no observation at Noon. —It clearing up in the Evening at 5,O'Clock, we saw the Land about Jarvis's Bay, [sic] and at 6. P.M. it bore South West of us. —

Monday 30th. Decr.—
At Noon this day we were in the Latitude of Port Jackson, namely 33° 53' South, and within sight of Port Jackson Heads, having thus only gained 75 miles of real distance in 18 Hours last past; that being the distance between Jarvis's Bay and Port Jackson, the former of which places we were abreast of at 6,O'Clock last Night; whilst by our Log we ran no less than 124 miles in these 18 hours; consequently we lost 49 miles by the Current setting to the Southward, notwithstanding there was a strong gale of wind with a high following Sea driving us on at the rate of 7 miles an hour on an average all yesterday and last Night.

Intending always to visit Port Stephens, and the Settlement of Newcastle in Hunter's River, previous to my return to Sydney, this coming within the scope of my present Tour of Inspection; I gave orders to Mr. Overand the Comr. of the Lady Nelson to steer direct for Port Stephens, which is about Eighty miles to the northward of Port Jackson, in order to afford me an opportunity of examining that Harbour – which is reported to me to be not only very capacious but also a very safe and commodious one for shipping easy of acces [sic] in all winds, and well supplied with fresh water. —

At 7. P.M. We were in sight and within ten miles of the Point to the Northward of Hunter's River and on which is the Settlement of Newcastle. — The wind still continues fair and blowing a fresh Breeze at South West but a strong Current against us.

Tuesday 31st. Decr. 1811.
At 2,O'Clock this morning, having arrived off Port Stephens, we hove-to till Daylight, in order to see our way in. —

At 6. a.m. made Sail towards the Land, then about 5 miles distant from us, the morning being rainy & hazy. At ¼ past 7. a.m. We passed through the Entrance into Port Stephens formed by the North & South Heads, two remarkable high Peaked Hills, resembling two Islands at a distance –; the breadth between those Heads being about a mile and a half – having a Bar across the Channel the whole way – but perfectly safe for Ships of the largest Burthen – having no less than 47½ Fathoms Water in the shoalest part of it even at low water. — At Half past 7. a.m. we anchored in Port Stephens – in the first Bason – in 5½ Fathom water, very fine anchorage and protected from all winds.

At 8. a.m. we saw some Natives on shore on the South side of the Bay, and four of them came off in their Canoes (there being two in each) soon afterwards to the vessel, came on board, eat some Biscuit, and seemed void of any fear or apprehension of us. —They were stout, tall and well made People. —

At 10. a.m. Mrs. M. and myself, accompanied by the Gentlemen of our Family & Mr. Overand, made an Excursion to the North side of the Bay, landed and walked across a narrow Neck of Land, not more than 200 yards broad, to a large capacious Bay running East & West (Parallel with Port Stephens) with a fine Island at the mouth of it, which serves to shelter Vessels that might anchor in this Bay from all winds. I have named this fine capacious Bay, Clarence Bay, in honor of His R.H. the Duke of Clarence – and the Island at the Entrance of it I have named Elizabeth Island after Mrs. M. — I have also named the Bay formed by the South Head of Port Stephens and Point Stephens, on the South side of the Entrance of the former, York-Bay in honor of H.R.H. the Duke of York; and the Island at the Entrance of Port Stephens I have named Inch Kenneth, from its resemblance to the Island of Inch Kenneth in Argyleshire. —

After walking for about an hour on shore we returned on board again; but just as we had set out in our Boat from the Beach, a single Native came running after us, holding up a Fish in his hand, which he seemed disposed to give us. — We put back to the shore to speak to him; he approached towards the Boat with great caution, and apparently under fear of being molested. — He however ventured near enough to the Boat to hand his Fish to Mrs. M., who gave him a piece of Tobacco in return, with which he seemed much pleased – but would by no means either come into the Boat or shake hands with any of us. — After the Boat had put off from the Beach he strutted and walked about on it in a very conceited fantastical manner – dancing and capering and making a number of signs which we did not understand.

The Outer or first Bason of Port Stephens, in which we are now lying at anchor, is about three miles in breadth from the North to the South side of the Bay, and about ten miles in depth, from the Entrance to an Island due west from it, which Island is centrically situated between two Points; the three forming the boundary line between the Outer and inner Basons of Port Stephens. — This Island I have named Meredith Island in honor of Mrs. M's esteemed friend Miss Meredith. The Land, as far as we can see, round this Outer Bason, is well wooded, being a succession of moderately high Hills, but a poor barren soil. —The Harbour however is good, safe, and capacious, and affords shelter for vessels from all winds. — There is also plenty of good fresh water to be procured on shore in Lagoons and Springs contiguous to the Beach on the South Side of the Bay, and very near our present anchorage off the Nelson's Head. —

On the turn of the Tide of Flood, we weighed anchor and stood up the Harbour, at ¼ before 7. P.M., and at 9. P.M.we anchored again within a quarter of a mile of Meredith Island, which is nine miles from our last anchorage at the Nelson's Head. The Lady Nelson is the first vessel that ever came up this far!

Source
Macquarie, Lachlan. Journal to and from Van Diemen's Land to Sydney in New South Wales. 4 November 1811 – 6 January 1812.
Original held in the Mitchell Library, Sydney.
ML Ref: A777 pp.34-73. [Microfilm Reel CY302 Frames #380-419].

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