Image Map
Journal
of a
Tour to the Cow Pastures
and
Illawarra---
---in January 1822

Wednesday 9. Jany. 1822.
I set out from Sydney this morning in the Carriage, accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie and Lachlan, at 7 o'clock, on a short Excursion to visit the Revd. Mr. Reddall & Family at Macquarie Field, and the Cow Pastures; having made an appointment with Sir Thomas Brisbane to meet us at the latter Place. ---We arrived at Liverpool at 1/2 past 9, Breakfasted at Dillon's Inn, and staid afterwards at Mr. Moore's till 12 o'clock. We then pursued our Journey to Macquarie Field -- where we arrived at 1 p.m. -- and were most kindly & hospitably received by the Host & Hostess.

I found Mr. Meehan here, who had arrived from Bathurst on the day preceding.---

My Servants & Baggage for my Tour to Illawarra had also arrived here last Night. ---We sat down to Dinner at 5 o'clock, and went early to Bed.---

Thursday 10. Jany.
We got up early, and Mrs. M. and Lachlan set out with me in the Carriage a quarter before 7, o'clock this morning for the Cow Pastures, intending to spend a couple of days at Cawdor the Government Principal Station there.---

We found the Cow Pasture Road, generally, very rough and bad for Travelling and it took us two Hours and a quarter from Mr. Reddall's to the Ford over the River Nepean at the old Government Hut, which is only a distance of 14 miles.

The Ford itself, and both Banks being very steep, we found much difficulty in passing; but we accomplished it without sustaining any accident. ---From the Ford it is near 4 miles to the Government Cottage at Cawdor -- where we arrived at a quarter before 10. a.m. the weather being extremely hot at that time. ---Mr. David Johnston met us on the Road on the Eastern side of the River Nepean, and conducted us at Cawdor. Here we found Mr. De Arrietta a Spanish Gentleman who has lately obtained a grant at the Cow Pastures.---

This is the first time of Mrs. Macquarie's visiting Cawdor, which she admires very much.

Nancy Moore followed us in the Curricle from Mr. Reddall's, with Edmund Sorell -- whom Lachlan had asked to accompany him to Cawdor. ---We had our Breakfast soon after our arrival.---

At 2. p.m. Sir Thomas Brisbane, attended by Major Ovens, Mr. Oxley, Capt. Antill, and Mr. Murdoch joined us at Cawdor. ---The Day being excessively hot, we did not dine till 6, o'clock when we sat down Eight Persons to Dinner.---

The Govt. Cottage at Cawdor has lately been very much improved, and enlarged since I was last here -- and is quite sufficient to accommodate us all. ---We went early to Bed, intending to ride out very early in the morning.

Friday 11. Jany.
I got up at 5, o'clock this morning -- and soon afterwards Sir Thos. Brisbane, Mr. D. Johnston, & Mr. Murdoch set out from Cawdor to Brownlow-Hill to inspect the Govt. stock at that Station. ---We had a very pleasant Ride along that rich Tract of Pasture Land extending from Cawdor along Mount Hunter Creek to Brownlow Hill, distant 8 miles from the former. ---We inspected the Govt. stock there accordingly -- and returned Home to Breakfast at 1/2 past 8 o'clock.---

After Breakfast, we mounted our Horses again and rode to Mr. McArthur's Farm of Camden -- where we inspected all his Improvements and Stock and returned Home again at 2, o'clock; having been this day 7 1/2 Hours on Horse-back.---Mrs. M. Lachlan, Teddy, and Nancy Moore went all in a Cart, on our return Home, to view at a distance Mr. McArthur's Improvements -- and returned Home by 5, o'clock.---We dined at 6 p.m. and went early to Bed, intending to rise very early tomorrow morning.

Saturday 12. Jany. 1822.
We all got up this morning at Half past 4 o'clock -- and set out from Cawdor at Half past 5, o'clock; Sir Thomas Brisbane travelling with Mrs. M. me and Lachlan in our Carriage. ---We crossed the Nepean at the Ford of Macquarie Grove, a Farm belonging to Mr. Hassall, and thence we travelled by the Cow Pasture Road to Mr. Meehan's Farm of Macquarie-Field -- where we arrived at 8, o'clock. ---We had Breakfast soon afterwards. ---After Breakfast, I accompanied Sir Thomas Brisbane to Liverpool to inspect the Public Buildings there, and remained with him till his departure for Parramatta -- when I returned to Macquarie Field. The Revd. Mr. Reddall had Mr. Moore, Mr. Throsby, Dr. Hill, and Mr. Meehan to Dine with us, besides his own Family today.---

Sunday 13. Jany. ---
Mrs. Macquarie, Lachlan, and myself, accompanied by Mr. Meehan -- and John and Nancy Moore -- went this morning before Breakfast to see John Moore's Farm in Minto District, adjoining that of Mr. Brooks. ---We viewed and examined different parts of it -- and Selected the fittest Place for building the House & offices on, which John Moore marked out accordingly. ---This Farm is distant about 3 miles from Macquarie-field -- and Eight miles from the Town of Liverpool.

In honor of their young Master, John & Nancy Moore have named their farm "Lachlan-Valley". We returned to Meehan Castle at 9, o'clock to Breakfast.---The Revd. Mr. Reddall went to perform Divine Service at Campbell-Town -- but returned Home to Dinner.---We dined at 1/2 past 5 -- and went early to Bed.---

Monday 14. Jany.
Got up at 1/2 past 5. a.m. At 1/4 past 6. Mrs. M. Lachn. Edmund Sorell & Nancy Moore, set out in the Carriage for Sydney -- whilst I, accompanied by Mr. Meehan, set out at the same time on my intended Tour of Inspection to Illawarra, through the Districts of Airds and Appin; the Revd. Mr. Reddall accompanying us to Campbell-Town. ---On our arrival there, we ordered Breakfast at Bradbury's and whilst it was getting ready, I accompanied Mr. Reddall to see his Glebe and the Site he had selected for Building his Parsonage House on. ---The Glebe is about 2 miles distant from Town, and very pleasantly situated commanding a fine extensive [view?] of the rich and beautiful District of Aids. ---We were absent about an Hour and a Half absent [sic] -- and then returned to Brad bury's where we took a good and hearty Breakfast at Ten o'clock.

After Breakfast we proceeded to take a survey of the Township and the New Church -- and which is a very pretty Building. The walls are up to their full Height and fit to receive the Roof, which is preparing and will be put on in the course of the ensuing week. We fixed on the Site of the Burying Ground, within a convenient distance of the Church -- and which is to consist of 3 acres of Ground. ---The principal Inhabitants assembled to meet us, and expressed themselves highly pleased at the arrangements made on this occasion.---

The Revd. Mr. Reddall took his leave of us at 1/4 before 12 at Noon -- and returned Home, whilst I and Mr. Meehan pursued our Journey for Illawarra.---

Mr. Bradbury is now building a very good two story Brick-House on his own Farm, and on a very pretty Eminence immediately adjoining Campbell-Town, as an Inn for the accommodation of the Public, and having asked me to give his Farm a name, I have called it "Bradbury Park".---

Campbell-Town is 13 miles from Liverpool -- and 8 miles from Mr. Meehan's Farm of Macquarie-Field --; it is a very beautiful and centrical situation, surrounded by a rich, Populous Neighbourhood, and making a good stage for Persons travelling to the Southern and Western Districts.---

The Road through Aids and Appin for the first 20 miles from Campbell-Town is tolerably good -- but from Mr. Broughton's Farm all the rest of the way to the Mountain Pass of Illawarra is most execrably bad for any sort of wheel-carriage. ---This very bad Road commences at King's Falls, where we crossed the Head of George's River very near its source, and from thence nothing can be worse -- it being almost impassable for a Cart or Gig -- and I confess I wondered at my Baggage Dray and Gig getting on at all without breaking down.

After scrambling over about 8 miles of this horrid rough Road we arrived at 4. p.m. at a Stream of Water in a Deep Valley about 9 miles from Mr. Broughton's Farm, which I have named "David's Valley" in honor of Mr. David Johnston who joined us here just as we were about sitting down to Dinner at 6, o'clock; and in this Valley we Pitched our Camp for the Night.---

Tuesday 15. Jany.
We got up at Day-break and had our Baggage Packed up and arranged, sending back the Curricle, and Dray with the heavy Baggage, to Mr. O'Brien's Farm in Appin; the Road being too rough and bad to admit of their proceeding farther on the Journey to Illawarra. ---We therefore put all the Baggage and Provisions required for our Journey on three Pack Horses.---

Mr. Cornelius O'Brien joined us at this station just as we were ready to set out. ---

At 10 mins. past 6. a.m. we set forward on our Journey; and after passing over some very bad Road, and crossing the Cataract River near it's [sic] source, we arrived at the summit of the great mountain that contains the Pass to the Low Country of Illawarra -- the Top of this mountain being three miles from our last station. ---On our arrival on the summit of the mountain, we were gratified with a very grand magnificent Bird's Eye view of the Ocean, the 5 Islands, and of the greater part of the low country of Illawarra as far as Red Point. ---After feasting our Eyes with this grand Prospect, we commenced descending the mountain at 20 mins. after 8, o'clock. The Descent was very rugged, rocky, and slippery, and so many obstacles opposed themselves to our progress, that it was with great difficulty that the Pack-Horses could get down this horrid steep descent. ---At length we effected it, but it took us an Hour to descend altho' the Descent is only one mile & a Half long. ---The whole face of this mountain is clothed with the largest and finest Forest Trees I have ever seen in the Colony. ---They consist chicfly of the Black-Butted Gum, Stringy Bark, Turpentine, Mountain Ash, Fig, Pepperment [sic], Box-Wood, Sassafrass, and Red Cedar; but the latter is now very scarce, most of it having been already cut down and carried away to Sydney. ---There are also vast Quantities of the Cabbage, Palm, and Fern Trees, growing in the face of the Mountain, the former being very beautiful and of great Height. ---

Finding that this mountain has never yet received any particular name, I have christened it the "Regent Mountain", as it was first descended by Mr. Throsby in the year 1815, when our present King was Regent of the United Kingdom.

We arrived at a Creek containing a very pretty Stream of Fresh running Water about 1 1/2 miles from the foot of the mountain at a qr. past 9, o'clock, and here we halted to Breakfast and to refresh our men and Cattle. ---I have named this stream of Fresh Water "Throsby's Creek", in honor of Mr. Throsby who first crossed it on his descending the Regent Mountain.

Having Breakfasted we pursued our Journey at 11. a.m. along the Sea shore towards Mr. Allan's Farm at Red Point, riding chiefly on a soft Beach for 12 miles -- and through very barren unprofitable Land. ---We crossed the Entrance of Tom Thumb's Lagoon which was at this time dry -- and soon afterwards arrived at Mr. Allan's Lands, meeting there with about 100 Natives, who had assembled at this place to meet and welcome me to Illawarra. They were of various Tribes, and some of them had come all the way from Jervis's Bay -- and they all appeared to be very intimate with Mr. O'Brien. ---They all knew who I was, and most of them pronounced my name (Govr. Macquarie) very distinctly. ---They were very civil, and I regretted exceedingly that I had no Tobacco for them. Having remained with them for about Ten minutes, we resumed our Journey to Mr. Allan's Establishment. It is a pretty enough Farm, and a good deal of it is cultivated, but it is too near the Sea, and falls far short of the fine description I have heard the Proprietor and others give of it. ---We ascended a Hill at the Eastern extremity of this Farm, from whence we had a very fine view of the Coast to the Southward as far as Basse's Head, as well as of the grand Sheet of Inland Water or Lake called Allowrie or Illawarra -- which is about 20 miles in circumference, and has a communication with the Sea by a very narrow channel.---

From Mr. Allan's Farm we proceeded on to Mr. Jenkins's, and thence through Mr. Brooks's, to Mr. Brown's Establishment situated on the Western Bank of the Lake. ---Here we arrived at 1/2 past 7, o'clock, and took up our station for the Night. ---Our Baggage however did not come up till 8, o'clock, altho' it came by a shorter Route than that we took, which was circuitous. The Lands we travelled over from Mr. Allans to Mr. Browns were chiefly open Forest Land of good quality -- and well wooded and watered.---

We have Travelled this day at least 30 miles from David's Valley to Mr. Brown's Establishment.

We had rather a late Dinner today -- not having Dined till 1/2 past 9, o'clock, and soon afterwards we went to Bed.---

Wednesday 16. Jany.
We set out from Mr. Brown's at 1/2 past 8 o'clock to explore the Country to the Southward and Westward; having first sent off our Servants and Baggage towards the Mountain over which the new Road from Illawarra to Appin has recently been made by Mr. O'Brien.

We proceeded through a very rich Country in a southerly direction for two miles, till we arrived on the left Bank of the Macquarie-River, a very pretty Stream of Fresh Water about 20 yards in Breadth, which falls into the Lake -- and is full of Fish -- with Cedar and other good Timber growing on its Banks. From the Macquarie River we travelled on in a westerly direction to Col. Johnston's Farm near the foot of the mountains. This Farm is a very fine one, well watered, and contains some very extensive beautiful Meadows bordering on the Lake and River. We continued our Journey still in a westerly direction to Mount Throsby -- which we ascended for the purpose of having a view of those parts of Illawarra which I had not time to visit. On our arrival on the summit of this Hill. we had a most extensive fine view of all the low Country to the Southward and Eastward of us -- including the Sea, the Lake, and the River. ---At 12 at Noon we descended Mount Throsby -- and then directed our course backwards, through a fine open Forest, towards Mr O'Brien's new Road, which we arrived at 2. p.m. ---Having rested ourselves & Horses at a fresh water creek, at the foot of the Mountain we were to ascend, for half an Hour, we commenced ascending the first Range at 1/2 past 2; -- and at 4. p.m. we arrived on the Top of the Mountain; which having obtained no particular name before, I have christened it "Mount Brisbane" in honor of the new Governor Sir Thomas Brisbane. I rode up the whole of the mountain, which is about two miles long, exclusive of the Ranges leading to the foot of it -- which are at least two miles more in length. ---The Road is perfectly safe and passable for Cattle, and is what may be termed a good Bridle Road; -- and it might he made a good Cart Road with very little more trouble. ---In ascending a very steep part of the mountain through some carelessness in the Driver, one of our Pack Horses with his Load, slipped and tumbled over three [text missing?] several times till he was stopped by a large Tree. ---We all concluded he was killed, but the Load preserved him, and after being disengaged from it, he got upon his Legs again without being in the least hurt, or wounded. ---We came up with, or rather overtook the Baggage about Half way up the Pass, which was fortunate, as we were thus enabled to afford the People in charge of it our assistance. With exception of this accident we all got up Mount Brisbane perfectly safe, and with great ease to ourselves.---

The face of this mountain is also studded with very large fine Timber of the same description as that on the Regent Mountain, but there are more Cedar Trees on the former than on the latter. ---I had one noble Cedar (Red) Tree measured on this mountain which measured 21 feet in Diameter and 120 feet in Height; the size of it being greater, and the Tree itself a finer one than I had ever seen before. ---The part of it which measured 21 feet in circumference was Ten feet from the Root of it, and continued to be of the same size for 60 feet above the ground. ---I also saw here the largest and finest Box Trees I had ever seen in the Colony.

We had a noble extensive view of the Ocean and part of Illawarra from the Summit of Mount Brisbane. ---We rested a few minutes on the Top of the Mountain, and then pursued our Journey towards Appin at 20 minutes past 4, o'clock, over a very good Bridle Road, tho' a little rough and stony. ---At 10 minutes past 7 p.m. arrived at a very pretty thick Forest, with good grazing for cattle, distant about Ten miles from the Top of Mount Brisbane. Here we took up our Ground for the Night, our men and cattle being rather tired. This day's Journey is about 32 miles. ---Mr. O'Brien has named this Place Lachlan Forest in honor of my beloved Boy.---

Thursday 17. Jany.
We got up early and Breakfasted -- then had our Baggage packed up and sent off, and set out ourselves from Lachlan-Forest at 1/2 past 8, o'clock a.m. After riding Five miles over a tolerable good Road, through an open Forest Country, we arrived at the Cataract River at 1/2 past 9 a.m. the Banks of which are immensely high and rocky -- and almost perpendicular. Here Mr. O'Brien succeeded in cutting out and forming a tolerable good Pass on either side of the River, and altho' very steep he has brought over a Cart & Team of Bullocks through the Passes thus made on each side of the River. It is frightful to look at -- but perfectly safe for Cattle and Persons on Horseback. I rode down the Pass on the Right Bank of the River, and up that on the Left Bank without once dismounting.

It appearing to me that Mr. O'Brien has great merit in constructing this Road (which was by subscription) with such few Hands and slender means, I have christened the Pass of the Cataract River after him, namely -- "O'Brien's Pass". ---He had only six men employed on this Line of Road (about 21 miles from Appin to Illawarra) with Sixty Pounds subscribed by the Principal Gentlemen who had large stocks of Cattle at Illawarra. Having crossed to the Appin side of O'Brien's Pass, we pursued our Journey. ---I called on Mrs. Broughton at "Lachlan Vale" 3 miles from the Cataract River, and remained an Hour with her & her Family. I afterwards proceeded on my Journey, calling at Mr. O'Brien's Farm, where the Baggage was ordered to Halt -- and wait our arrival. ---Here I quitted my Horse for the Tandem and set out in it for Sydney at 1/2 past 12, o'clock, leaving my Servants & Baggage to follow next day at their leisure. ---

I stopt [sic] at Liverpool to change Horses for Half an Hour, then set out again, and arrived at Government House Sydney at Ten minutes past six o'clock; finding my dear Mrs. M. and our Darling Boy in good Health, and sitting down at Dinner, with a few friends, namely Major Antill, Dr. Ramsay, and the Revd. Mr. Reddall.

I had almost forgot to mention that I left my Travelling companions Mr. Meehan, Mr. David Johnston, and Mr. O'Brien at the House of the latter, where they were engaged to dine previous to their proceeding to their respective Homes.

L.M.

N.B. At least 20,000 acres of good Land still remains unlocated in Illawarra.---

L.M.


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